This is my second full year but still class myself as a beginner.

Didn't get out that last year for various reasons.

I can get up going out (Pinaroo my local) but can't slide turn so I drop into the water and try to waterstart coming in (goofy foot) but fail miserably..

My last session on Tuesday after work, the wind was perfect and had done about four frustrating runs going out OK but just couldn't get up coming in.

I was just about to call it a day but I thought one more run. Got out, dropped in the water and thought, right, this time. To my surprise I got up and running and made it warily back to to shore. I remember getting off the board and pumping my clenched fist in the air. I was stoked.

The walk of shame was a little shorter this time and I went out a couple more times but with not as much success but I didn't want to stop. If wasn't for the sun setting I wouldn't have gone home.

Had a couple of beers to celebrate when I got home.

Hope by the end of the season I can turn and hold my ground.

See you down there!

salt said...

bennie said...
ly came out because it got to dark.

What is with the majority of WA voting against daylight saving?!!!

1. It doesn't fade your curtains
2. or make a dry place even dryer haha

Because like yesterday it was 41 deg at 5.30, with daylight saving it still would of been 41 deg at 6.30 and so on.

... getting out of the first death-loop.... ALIVE....

For a start thats not me. Its Ian Alldredge.....

But the reason i'm showing this pic is because i had THE best wave session today. In the same location that this picture was taken.

Waves the same size as this but butter smooth. SMOOTH. I was there nigel no mates perfect 8m wind and was greated with wave after wave after wave afterwave.

Slight cross off and a absolute perfect angle for riding down the line. I didn't even need to tack way out to see to get back upwind. Just blast back to the next swell and hit it again. That was indeed supreme. the Swell just smooth up and jacked up and it was epic indeed. EPIC.

I was expecting the local lads to show at some point but nobody did. So i had the place to myself.

Usually I'm packing myself in double head conditions but this was so clean, so predictable, I was super relaxed just cruising around the wave face.

I'll be remembering that session for a very long time.