Noice frant.
Well to follow up on Balangan, 2 days later i went back (waaayyy too sore to go the day after the 1st sesh) and the swell ect was equal and as constant but as soon as i clocked the break from the steps leading down i knew something was diff.
A very angry ocean that day. On the way down the steps i chance a Brazilian bloke with his hand carved open and deep grazes on his gath helmet...
Had a chat and noticed he seemed to be in mild shock... er.. onto the beach and pass a bloke in boardies with kn full on reef grazes ALL OVER his back that looked like aa flock of eagles had fancied him as lunch (seriously) Er...
Took a bit more time to suss the breakl and had a chat to a friendly Yarpie who worded me up on the change to the set-up.
At this point i wish i had kept at my swimming/cycling training which was going apples until 3 colds in a row prior to bali knocked the HTFU outta me.
Anyway, after 4 valiant (and long) attempts to get out, and ending up washed down the bay, by a super strong current, into the really dodgy rock section each time, i had to pull the pin as i was close to puking - no sh!t (no poo pun intended).
I felt very dissapointed at not quite making it out (was sooo close several times only to get cleaned up by a full set each time) but figured it was nature's way of telling me not to play with elements stronger than I on this day.
Took a posi on a lazyboy and scoped out the scantily clad beach babes frolicking directly in front (haven't travelled in 9 yrs and almost forgot how kn gorgeous fillys from other nations can be
). Also had the only sun bathing sesh in 10 days in bali as way too much rellie, kids, other sh!te goin on for relaxing time.
Then I had enough time left to spend 30 mins checking out some of the action on the water (I
never allow myself the luxury of doing this for surfing or kiting at home) and man, there were two dudes out there pushing each other harder each wave and without a doubt it was some of the best surfing I have ever seen live.
Kn awesome stuff and inspiring enough to ensure next time I get a chance for quality waves i will net let a month of hacking cough and snot balls hamper a proper preparation for a playground like this.
Lesson learnt.
All good.
