Greenroom said...
I still dont get why people wanna lay down while riding a wave?
Part of the reason is that when your face is six inches above the water, the sensation of speed is ten times what you get when you are standing on a surfboard or a windsurfer.
Also, to do it properly and get the most out of a wave, there is quite a bit of skill involved.
It's a bit like kite boarding in that respect. Almost anyone can throw up a kite and get dragged around like a muley on a fish hook, but it takes some skill to do it properly.
And for body bashing and boogering, almost anyone can flop onto a wave and get washed onto the beach and call it 'surfing', but to pick the absolute best point to catch a wave and then adjust the track to get a blistering speed run across the face with the break snapping at your heels takes more than a little bit of skill. And from my observations over a very long time, not many people get it right.