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your best wave of the year...
Without a doubt would be the first day I picked up my new shorty...narrowneck was 4-5ft ,glassy and pretty straight...unless you got THE ONE...we'll after being nailed a couple of Times. Well I got nailed pretty hard on the shallow bank....my third wave came...I dropped in and it just started to throw over me and freight train...I was waiting to get hammered again,but I just kept getting faster and I was getting excited....next thing I got spat out and was still.screaming along the flats behind the wave...peeps hooted and I was buzzing....the wave behind closed out and I saw the whitewater coming at me,I went to duckdive...but I was like **** that,spun around and.rode that wash to the beach.....I had not had a tube like that since I smashed my back up..****ing brilliant
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