WA
24860 posts
Watching mates get good waves is good for me.
NSW
3487 posts
Scott's Head back in July when i was travelling back from Woopi, it almost looked as if I knew what I was doing
WA
1267 posts
Best wave on Mal:
Metro beachy mid winter after work session- light offshore, epic banks and with a proper clean, groomed winter swell but not too big to inhibit the shape.
Got a few smaller dredgy ones on the mal and just got pipped at the end of them, spotted a big one between the packs and made a bee line for it, helicopter arms and all, faded the bottom turn and just hung on as it wrapped around me and hammered down the bank, no turning needed just picked the line and leaned in, crew on the shoulder had eyes like saucers!
The noise inside was unreal!
Made it through the wave and just near the shore was going to kick out and the back wash claimed me and thumped me into the sand - all worth it, was shaking afterwards for a bit, adrenaline was pumping!
Best wave on Shorty:
Winter again, was in the middle of a storm with massive swell, was desperate for a wave, packed the shorty which is more like a fish and me and a mate went looking, checked the local reefy - out of control, never seen it like that - just insane. Noticed the wind starting to back off...interesting i thought, try a break I have never seen on a big swell.
It was a bit of a drive and a punt, carpark only had 2 cars in it...Hmm.
Walked over the hill and bugger me, the place was just perfect, no wind, well over head mind benders with a death end section on some reef and only 4 out. Never surfed this place on anything more than 2.5m, was a totally different wave at 4.5 but in a good way!
Got clipped and pinned a couple of times, blokes out there sure had the place wired and after watching, waiting and hooting everyone else in got my turn.
It wedged up and threw me down the face, I only just managed to get traction on the rail and made my way up the face after a touch and go bottom turn, once I got a bit higher the view was unreal -just flew at high speed on the higher section watching the wavetake shape in front of me, got through a fatter section and then dropped down into a bowl section and lent in , hooting all the way even though was not a barrel was a good feeling, came out of that and then a bit broke in front of me which I got around and then there was the rest of the wall to go to town on, only just remembered the dodgy closeout in time to pull off, after a few more beat downs and smaller ones called it a day. Will remember that wave next time the conditions are similar that's for sure!
One of the best winters I have seen over here in a while!
NSW
1317 posts
Best wave of the year was from a customer of mine that turned 100 when i was leaving her place after wishing her a happy birthday
unfortunately it also corresponded with the stupidest thing i have ever said to someone who was still mobile,hasn't lost her marbles,cooks a pretty mean lamington slice, still goes shopping every Thursday, and said she would of made a pass at me if she was 60 years younger !!
"look after yourself Rene "
I reckon she might have !!
QLD
458 posts
3 waves I can't split.
Late July east swell. Outside Alley to inside bank in front of Princess Palms set wave about 6ft. Measured it on google thingy like Vanders - 650m. Riding 9'1 Classic Malibu HP thruster with channel bottom (did get a couple of these)
2 waves at Kirra in March - 1 behind Big Groyne & 1 down the line came out of both. Riding custom Found bodyboard (Kirra is no place for me on my backhand riding a LB!!) As payback I had my heaviest flogging for the year and didn't surf for 2 weeks, still having issues with my shoulder 9 months on.
. The highlight for me was riding a wave standing up for the first time in 2 1/2 years. It was on a 666 . I hope that counts.
