I spent two weeks in Egypt last November. Twelve of these days were at Dahab, the other two in Cairo. If you are thinking of taking a windsurfing holiday there, my experiences may help in your planning. If you've been there, maybe this post will revive happy memories. If neither, I'm sorry to have wasted this small amount of your time.

I won't elaborate on matters that you can find out from websites or travel resources such as Lonely Planet's guide to the “Middle East”.

Club Dahab:
Is one of quite a few providers offering a “package” of accommodation, sailing gear and tuition. Their brochure can be ordered through their website. Their “package” is offered on a week-by-week basis; change-over day is Sunday. I was able to negotiate the extra days both sides of my official “week”. They were very helpful in this.

I was very happy with the enthusiasm and competence of the instructors. I am sure my sailing improved as a result of their instruction and peer pressure.

I chose to stay at the 2-star Ganet Sinai; a 4 star option is also available. Accommodation included breakfast and dinner. The food was consistent, acceptable if somewhat uninspiring.

I did have misgivings on the choice and condition of Club Dahab's sailing gear. There were not enough boards of the type and size sought by myself and my peers (freeride, ~115 litres). Generally, the anti-skid was tired; I had a few gybe attempts where my back foot slipped off the board, resulting in cracked nuts, and great mirth from the shore and in the bar that night - one of my stacks was captured on video. Apparently their boards are replaced every February, so I suppose they were showing their age. I did think that other package providers (eg Harry Nass) had boards in better condition.

The sailing:
In a word, awesome. Freeride heaven. Routinely, the wind would start building about daybreak, peak at about 1100, continue full-on until about 1400, and then was often calm by 1600. Peak wind strength seemed to be about 20 knots. I never felt overpowered with a sail of 6 sq. metres; probably could have gone a bit bigger. Water and air temperature were both about 25 degrees.

You can sail in the lagoon, or, better, just behind the sand spit that partly forms the lagoon. Called “Speedy”, this is the place for long runs on flat water in clean wind. At Speedy, however, the wind is blowing directly offshore. If something breaks, your next landfall is Saudi Arabia should the patrolling rescue boat not spot you. You have to have confidence in your ability and gear, and the rescue boat. And Allah.

Getting to Dahab:
If you travel to Dahab independently (as I did), you can fly to Sharm El Sheikh, and then go by bus or taxi to Dahab. There are frequent EgyptAir flights to Sharm El Sheikh from Cairo. Dahab is 100 kilometres north of Sharm, through the desert. I went by taxi.

Egyptian drivers display considerable courtesy to each other, up to a point. At night time, for example, they will turn off their lights when approaching another vehicle. The oncoming vehicle reciprocates, generally. Great. Two cars approaching each other at a combined speed of about 200 kph. In the dark. Or worse, a car and a truck approaching each other at that speed. I'm in a car.

Should the driver of the second vehicle fail to reciprocate promptly, then it becomes “light wars”. Horns, high beam, driving lights, gesticulations and language that would make a camel blush. I travelled by taxi at night from Sharm to Dahab. On safe arrival at Dahab, I went straight to the bar. Perhaps I should have gone to the mosque.

I travelled the return trip in bright daylight.


Dahab township:
Is far from being a luxury resort, in fact, first impressions are that it's a bit squalid. Streets are messy and buildings are unfinished. The combined towns of Mashraba, Masbat and Assalah are about 5 minutes away by taxi. There is a waterside promenade with many shops and funky restaurants. Good for a night out.

Dahab for non-sailors:
Mrs. Bristol did not come to Dahab with me. I think, on reflection, that was a good decision. (She went instead to her mother's birthplace in Ukraine). There's really not a lot to do at Dahab for non-sailors. Dahab is a “one trick pony” sort of place. It's a brilliant trick.

Petra:
I was planning a side trip to the ancient ruins of Petra, in Jordan. It was theoretically do-able as a day trip from Dahab. You have a 0530 start, and finish at 2300. The early start and late finish times are dictated by a ferry timetable, the ferry bypasses Israel, going from Egypt to Jordan. I would have had to commit to the Petra trip the day before, choosing a day the when the forecast suggested little or no wind. I ran out of days – such a day never came.

Some indicative costs:
These are in $AUS.
Weeks package with Club Dahab (excluding charter flight to and from UK, including single supplement) $850
Supplementary nights at Ganet Sinai: $50 per night.
Taxi Sharm to Dahab: $35
Taxi Dahab to Mashraba: < $3
Heineken Beer: < $2.50 a bottle
Lunch (pizza, fish etc): <$6

If I were going again:
(a) I would investigate condition of boards at the rental outlets, to at least match my home gear
(b) I would again plan on visiting Petra
(c) I would take a bash protector for the mast base
(d) I would travel only by daylight between Sharm and Dahab, and return