It's something that's always been about but generally not worthy of comment as more a rarity than the norm but these past few weeks, I've noticed more and more anger, unfriendliness and general lack of smiles in the line up down my way and some comments on these forums relating to the alleged banning of SUP's at Angourie, endangering surfers in Byron etc etc.
WTF's going on here ?
After surfing (actually SUP'ing) down The Farm this morning, I had a lengthy conversation with a Shellharbour local and elder statesman who despite being a shortboarder, thoroughly enjoyed the sight of my SUP carving some arc's (albeit minor) on peelers and seemingly enjoying the moment with nothing but a smile.
Evidentially, this chap is currently recovering from a second heart attack and is in his 9th week out of the water. Frustrated by the lack of salt but damn happy to be alive.
I feel that my newfound love is very different to the feelings of the general surfer. There's not a lot a friendly banter, not a lot of laughing, many frowns, comments mumbled and a general frustrated look amongst many.
This is not why we all started surfing all those years ago - it was meant to be fun, hooting each other, laughing, sharing, letting a mate get the set wave.......where does it go wrong ?
I've spent over 25 years surfing the full gambet of equipment from potato chip shortboards, retro keels and longboards both competitively and socially and totally understand the frustration of big boards snaking and small boards struggling but the general perception of the SUP appears to be 'F**K OFF' out in the line-up.
I totally get it should the surf be overhead, crowded and intense but I'm not sure why anyone in their right mind on a 1-2 foot day with easy 'get back out' channels, especially longboarders, seem so unaccepting of an activity that promotes water time, fitness, wave riding, skill enhancement and general stoke.
It saddens me that ego's and a trend to 'look good' and be accepted outweighs the chance to follow your own dreams and be an individual.
The other day, surfing a 'local' longboard break, 3 SUP's paddled out. As they did, I flicked off on the inside and started the paddle back out not more than 2 metres from a fellow SUP'per.
'G'day mate' I said.
The response was silence.
'Hey bro, how ya' goin' I barked.
Again, nothing.
He then paddled around me and hooked a wave.
WTF - there's enough agro without the core group of SUP'pers being tools as well.
Today, my 'wave of the day' peaked well wide and out the back of the pack......being in the prime spot, I wheeled around and had a good look down the line, called the guy inside on the 9'0 Meyerhoffer' into it;
'All yours bro, go, go, go' I screamed.
'Come with me, sit inside me, let's share' he replied.
'Nah, f**ken go' Wahoo - I yelped.
Mr Meyerhoffer bloke rode it through, bashing the lip, nose ride thru the inside, flicked off 150m down the track with a hoot.......and I was the most stoked bloke in the line-up for sharing what in my mind is the surfing experience.
It's not always about self fulfillment and ego. It's about Aloha and sharing many experiences.
I just wish more were as accepting of SUP's as a valid form of surf equipment on the right day and generally spent a minute each day being thankful that we have the chance we have each day to both breath and surf without all the negative vibe and selfish, angry ant behaviour.
Here's some shot's of a lovely sunrise this morning. A beautiful way to farewell 2009, a watershed year in my surfing life.
