Curious what the volume is relative to the rider's weight. Volume above the water while taxiing is just weight that isn't adding efficiency. Also, having ridden a lot of different board configurations, I prefer having a little bit of sink in the tail to add a little stability. Sunken deck can make some sense, but more is not necessarily better and this takes it to the Extreme. Could be wrong, but overall I'm not sold on this.

Volume above water in the nose and tail might seem wasted for a level board, but the buoyancy is “activated” as the board pitches forward or back. Whether or not the best approach is the design concept shown here, or simply having a longer board, is another question?

Here in NZ, legend Biggie has made a few versions.

Here is post.
www.facebook.com/share/p/1FPn8a8ka3/

For those not on Facebook see photo

Hello deep down under, Flowstate,

Thanks for the compliments.

I built the board. I hope we can go together sometime soon ;-)
On my Facebook, Bram Hoogendijk, you can see more pictures of previous versions. (unfortunately I can't post links yet)

Over the past three years, I have further developed the concept of the lowered deck. The basic idea is the canoe where you sit on the bottom. Important is gentle paddling behavior; I am over sixty. ;-) and a super stiff construction between feet and foil.
My playground is the North Sea, Scheveningen, Holland. Conditions here vary greatly, from flat to big waves.
The biggest challenge, in good conditions, is the shore break.
This board is ideal for this; sitting on my knees, I brave the shore break, after which I can stand up and head out into the open sea. The large volume of 115 liters is compensated by the low weight of +- 4.4 kg.

Lately, since the hollow windsurf boards of 1980, I have been building boards. Everything comes together in this board.

What Stretchy writes is exactly right.
The only thing I changed on my new board is a slightly thicker nose. The current length and width are fine for me. 54x217x12/22 cm 105 liters 4.4 kg 21" x 7.1 ft. The round shapes are also important for the construction. Hollow. An egg is super strong. The convex shapes are structurally ideal for building something light and voluminous. The skin consists of carbon, 3mm PVC, Inegra; at the foot deck, this is 8mm Airex.
This skin construction is almost unbreakable, which is not unimportant for a hollow board.
The board has two ribs at the deck; the foot strap plugs and the mast rail are directly attached to them.

Frankieboy's wish for a Tuttle box is not an option yet.
I want to keep the board flexible; there are still too many different mast positions regarding hydrofoils and rider preferences.

Hope your curiosity has been satisfied.

Greetings from Scheveningen.
Bram

I will say that Bram is onto it for construction. Not easy to do that.
Moulds taken from a 60's Ducatti though

Indeed. This is a Jack to the extreme.....

I’ve got a lot of these features on my cabrinha swift and I hate all of them. Wave piercing nose splashes water into the receded deck and I’ve got 10 lbs of water in the deck when I’m trying to get in foil and more splashes in as fast as it drains. Also all the volume in the domes is USELESS