Johndesu said..
Greetings to all
Just testing some Takuma Kujira Wings 1210 & 1095 & 980 so wanting some feed back regarding the mast position, - more towards the nose or more towards the back in the tracks and if the same position would suit all etc. thanks:-)

Takuma 980 on a 5.0 x 85ltr wingfoil board.Alu V1 85cm mast with 2 degree mastplate shim (thick end forward).
As you can see the back strap starts a bit behind the front of the mast (but the shim moves the foil to rear ).
The diagram shows dims in cm measured from tail mostly (for ex. rear screw 33cm from tail),let me know if you do not understand something.I did the diagram for a DIY board project.

The 1095&1210 setup pretty much the same, very forward and same shim.

For Surfoiling i use 75cm mast,unshimmed for alu mast and mastplate shim for TBar (but 1.5* and thick side at rear).Fully to rear of boxes on Gong Matata 5'

Fun with psycho Takuma angles huh?.

Velocicraptor said..

Johndesu said..
Greetings to all
Just testing some Takuma Kujira Wings 1210 & 1095 & 980 so wanting some feed back regarding the mast position, - more towards the nose or more towards the back in the tracks and if the same position would suit all etc. thanks:-)

I rode all of those foils in roughly the same position, towards the front of my tracks, but not slammed. I was riding them with a Cedrus mast and a track that was parallel to the deck. Generally 0.5 degree tail shim with the KD 13.5 and 178. For reference, I ride the Unifoil gear slammed - maybe 0.5" further forward than the Takuma gear.

Thanks Velocicraptor further forward;-) and thanks mcrt I just got the 72cm aluminum mast (the one with no base plate mast screw) and will try it out soon but do I really need to shim the mast? - I thought it was only for boards without a totally flat bottom/hull etc?:-)

mcrt said..

Johndesu said..

I just got the 72cm aluminum mast (the one with no base plate mast screw) and will try it out soon but do I really need to shim the mast? - I thought it was only for boards without a totally flat bottom/hull etc?:-)

Did not know there was a 72cm mast?.

Anyway,with the V1 Alu 75/85 cm:

You do not need to shim but at speed the nose will be pointing down.

This becomes tiring for the back leg (it will be more flexed than the front).
Very noticeable when Down Winging.

A level or slightly nose up board in flight will also give more control at speed (KDMaui said...) and i find it much easier to recover from touchdowns and to land chop hops.

For surfoiling small waves the speeds are generally lower and a bit of nose down makes pumping easier (again KdMaui).

So give it a try unshimmed and shimmed and see what feels better for you.

PS: when i moved from 75 to 85cm mast for winging i had to move it forward in the boxes and add a little more downforce to the stab to get balanced again (otherwise it would nosedive a bit).

Yeah no worries mcrt I will try it all out

mcrt said..

Johndesu said..

I just got the 72cm aluminum mast (the one with no base plate mast screw) and will try it out soon but do I really need to shim the mast? - I thought it was only for boards without a totally flat bottom/hull etc?:-)

Did not know there was a 72cm mast?.

Anyway,with the V1 Alu 75/85 cm:

You do not need to shim but at speed the nose will be pointing down.

This becomes tiring for the back leg (it will be more flexed than the front).
Very noticeable when Down Winging.

A level or slightly nose up board in flight will also give more control at speed (KDMaui said...) and i find it much easier to recover from touchdowns and to land chop hops.

For surfoiling small waves the speeds are generally lower and a bit of nose down makes pumping easier (again KdMaui).

So give it a try unshimmed and shimmed and see what feels better for you.

PS: when i moved from 75 to 85cm mast for winging i had to move it forward in the boxes and add a little more downforce to the stab to get balanced again (otherwise it would nosedive a bit).

Yeah thanks mcrt I will experiment & try it all out, also the actual measurement of my mast is around 72cm from the bottom of the base plate / board hull to the top of the mast / base of the fuselage so I guess they still say 75cm but other masts that I have are a bit longer, also I wanted to ask you if you have noticed any unwanted flex etc in the mast?:-)

BTW i think the earliest versions of the Alu V1 mast had a different angle to the fuse (with less angle of attack).

Not sure because Takuma has driven me and many others crazy with setup angles...

Foil Drive? Not for winging?

As Mcrt said, "Not sure because Takuma has driven me and many others crazy with setup angles..." your choice of mast and fuse will make a difference.

Regardless of your combo, set the fuse such that it is parallel to the deck (shim front or rear of mast plate) and check the balance point of the board by holding the front wing. Then go back or forward, then adjust your tail shim. Takuma performance is really good once you get dialed in. Use the tail shim to make front foot lift or more back foot neutral.

The 1095 likes to be a bit more forward than the 980 and 1210 for me, and is more neutral, so don't be afraid of shimming under the front of stab for it, or under the back screw for the 980 and 1210.

For reference, with the 1095 and old T mast on a flat rockered board for winging, about middle of the track, no shims mast or stab. For prone, slightly more back, small shim under front of mast plate, shim under rear of stab. New carbon mast and fuse, lots of shim like Mcrt under front of mast, move forward in mast track, shim the front of the stab. Had to adjust the fuse to mast connection angle so it wasn't so f'd up.

Now mostly switched to Go Foil V2 mast, on same board, with the 850ha and 1150 rs, mast way back.