I have an 1800 Naish HA and I can gybe on both sides 80% of the time in flat water. It's not effortless as I feel like the glide is not all there with this foil. In chop it's about 50% of the time but only on one side. The other side I'm useless.

I am wondering if another foil setup would help or if I need to just keep working on it.

How long is your mast? Flatwater practice will help a bunch.

Hey Jake DAWG,
I ride the HA1800 and seem to be at about your level when it comes to gybes. I think you will find it is mostly technique.
Just as an example, If I ride a lot in flat water, (usually a north east breeze) I think I am the king of world when it comes to gybing, speed, making the foil do my bidding. Then when the wind is from the other direction (southerly) and I ride in the swells that roll in from the Pacific ocean into Botany Bay, man do I spend a lot of time swearing and getting back up on that damn board.
That said, after a few sessions in the swells and the wind goes back to North East, I have a greater set of skills for those flat water sessions.

I agree that the HA 1800 does not glide when you use the basic settings, I now use a HA240 rear wing with 1' shim under the back edge, improved the glide from my perspective.
Cheers,
Gary

Hi Jake,
I was having the exact same problem trying to gybe in chop with my Naish HA1240 foil. I started out with a low aspect Jet 2000 foil, then a Jet 1650 foil, as I couldn't hold the 2000 down with my weight (73 Kilos) , and even the 1650 was easily overpowered. so I got an HA 1240., because the advertising said High Aspect was the way to go.!
Certainly the HA 1240 was faster , but I felt every twitch and bump when riding in chop, especially up wind, and the foil was hard for 'ME' to control when attempting to gybe in chop. too sensitive for my skill level? OK it's glide is excellent, and it's brilliant in flattish conditions, but add some chop, and it's becomes more difficult.
So I bought the JET 1250 foil, and stabiliser , it seemed a retrograde step, and it is if you want flat out speed, and early foiling, But, the Gybe success rate went through the roof ! The lower aspect although not so 'efficient' , smooths out the stutters in the chop, is not so sensitive, carves tighter, and is more forgiving, much more 'surfy' .
OK it is not so fast in a straight line, but the lower aspect ratio is so much easier to gybe, and play around with.
I noted in your message that you were concerned about glide, so was I, and thought more glide would sort it. for me a comfortable friendly platform to work from, made everything easier.

Seastudent said..

itsREDMAN said..
Hey Jake DAWG,
I ride the HA1800 and seem to be at about your level when it comes to gybes. I think you will find it is mostly technique.
Just as an example, If I ride a lot in flat water, (usually a north east breeze) I think I am the king of world when it comes to gybing, speed, making the foil do my bidding. Then when the wind is from the other direction (southerly) and I ride in the swells that roll in from the Pacific ocean into Botany Bay, man do I spend a lot of time swearing and getting back up on that damn board.
That said, after a few sessions in the swells and the wind goes back to North East, I have a greater set of skills for those flat water sessions.

I agree that the HA 1800 does not glide when you use the basic settings, I now use a HA240 rear wing with 1' shim under the back edge, improved the glide from my perspective.
Cheers,
Gary

Could you describe or show your shimming method with the Naish foil? I am feeling it could be helpful but if you could provide a head start on the tools and methods I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks,
Seastudent

It's pretty easy.. You can either shim with 3D printed shim.. or just a s/s washer.. or even use couple of bread ties and they work well.. You can use one, two or three or them.. Just experiment and see what works best.

JakeDawg, I think this has happened to heaps of us when learning. Preferred side is better. Flat conditions easy, add in chop and it's a nightmare. The chop definitely upsets the foil so keep working on it. The thing that really helped me in rough conditions was having a long fuse, which stabilised the pitch a lot and made it much easier to get around. It deadens the pumping a bit, but I'm willing to have that compromise.
I've got a more advanced foil now and am finding the learning process has begun all over again.

Get your mind off the wing and focus on your flight. If you can do S turns you can jibe. You can chase gear and shims but better to fix the root cause.Move the wing parallel to the sea and out of the way into a neutral place for the jibe so you can forget about it for 2 seconds.

+2

hilly said..

JohnnyTsunami said..
Get your mind off the wing and focus on your flight. If you can do S turns you can jibe. You can chase gear and shims but better to fix the root cause.Move the wing parallel to the sea and out of the way into a neutral place for the jibe so you can forget about it for 2 seconds.

Totally agree. Biggest mistake people make is keeping wing power on. Just pump through the turn and the wing wing sort itself out. If you turn on a swell you have heaps of time before you need to re- engage the wing.

1. Technique (As Hilly said, pump through the turn.) Check the first part of this vid that shows the wind overhead and the rider just turning under it.
2. Dial your gear. I just started using a 1440 Takuma for light wind days and felt like a total beginner again. The foil would catch small chop mid turn and straighten itself to dead down wind. If I really cranked into the turn, the board would spin and cavitate. I then spent some time just pumping on every reach to really get a feel for it. So over a few days, I ended up shimming the foil to fuse connection to get rid of a tiny amount of slop, added negative tail pitch and moved the mast forward. Now it jibes just as comfortably as my 1095 which I also pump through and out of turns.