Greg posted a short video on converting the v1 Maliko into a setup similar to the second gen wings/bar.
Using the add on harness loops, you move the A and C bridle lines from the original bar end points to the harness loops.
I haven't tried it yet - need the wind to come back - but Greg says this helps with canopy stability.
Hopefully this works -
Took the Maliko (new bar config) out to the beach today to see how it would fly (I do this with new stuff).
It feels pretty darn close to the Ka'a that I've been using - I really like it.
The wind is coming back the next several days so I'll have on the water feedback soon. But for now, I'd say those of you picking up barely used Maliko V1 PWs are the smartest people around - I'm sensing once you make the bar modification, you'll have a well behaved, decent ranged, agile and controllable parawing
More to follow
Recently got a second hand maliko for 380pounds, I had one session out on it as it comes standard, then this morning did the bridle lines mod, as well as this new adjustment before a hour session just now. Obviously I cant compare between each individual change, but overall the wing handled gusts a lot better, and flew more stable, and I think gave a better feel of power deliverance. Excited to start Parawinging and scoring some stow'd rides!
If anyones contemplating waiting for newer models, then dont. I have picked up parawinging fast, and only have windsurf and wing, and pump background, two sessions no more than 2 hours total, I have nailed gybes, and completed a few toe side tacks, using a 100L KT dragonfly v1 and armstrong 1080cm2 HA foil, with the 4m maliko, in 15-30knots.
Took the modified bar Maliko out on the water today - this is a completely different wing - for the better.
Everything is better - stability, range, maneuverability and the power sweet spot (bigger).
If you have a Maliko v1, do this mod.
Regarding the mod, why use a harness loop for C when C is originally already at the back of the bar?
Select to expand quotelobodomar said..
Regarding the mod, why use a harness loop for C when C is originally already at the back of the bar?
Probably because the webbing on the original bar wears through.
For those interested, I'd like to share my (for now) final version of my BRM V1 modifications. The performance is really good. The wing flies more forward in the window and generates more of its own apparent wind.
The changes:
- BRM bridle mod
- Inclusion of a yoke for the B-lines
- Center 4 B-lines connected to the A-line attachment point
- "Wing-style" bar, which creates more of a 'hang' feeling
- Shorter bar as well
- Center 4 A-lines wrapped with Velcro
- Direct leash connection to the A-lines (and the 4 B-lines)
- Traleaze: Leash and trapeze line combined into one (with swivel & QR)
- O-ring as trapeze connector
- Silicone tube used as a stiffener
The advantages (compared to OG V1)
- More forward flying
- More apparent wind generated
- 'snaps back' more easy after pump
- Much less nervous/twitchy
- Stays in the 'happy place' more easily
- Higher upper wind speed limit by characteristics alone (and even more due to the tralease)
- Very easy A4 stow
- More of a 'hang' feeling at the bar (think Duotone Slick vs Unit)
- Pressure relief, as the leash is the same length as arm length (no line stretch), resulting in less load when both hooked and unhooked
- O-ring hooks in smoothly and also releases easily when needed
This is on my 4.0. I did a similar mod on my 2.9, but with the 'V2-style' bar. I prefer this setup.
sounds interesting. what is the distance between the attachment points A-C for the 4.0?
Select to expand quoteRobert211 said..
This is on my 4.0. I did a similar mod on my 2.9, but with the 'V2-style' bar. I prefer this setup
you mean you prefer the one on the 4.0 or with v2 bar?
Select to expand quoteFoilix said..
sounds interesting. what is the distance between the attachment points A-C for the 4.0?
About 30 CM.Select to expand quoteFrankieboy said..Robert211 said..
This is on my 4.0. I did a similar mod on my 2.9, but with the 'V2-style' bar. I prefer this setup
you mean you prefer the one on the 4.0 or with v2 bar?
Ah, meant the one on the photo's (the bar of the 4.0).
Select to expand quoteRobert211 said..
For those interested, I'd like to share my (for now) final version of my BRM V1 modifications. The performance is really good. The wing flies more forward in the window and generates more of its own apparent wind.
The changes:
- BRM bridle mod
- Inclusion of a yoke for the B-lines
- Center 4 B-lines connected to the A-line attachment point
- "Wing-style" bar, which creates more of a 'hang' feeling
- Shorter bar as well
- Center 4 A-lines wrapped with Velcro
- Direct leash connection to the A-lines (and the 4 B-lines)
- Traleaze: Leash and trapeze line combined into one (with swivel & QR)
- O-ring as trapeze connector
- Silicone tube used as a stiffener
The advantages (compared to OG V1)
- More forward flying
- More apparent wind generated
- 'snaps back' more easy after pump
- Much less nervous/twitchy
- Stays in the 'happy place' more easily
- Higher upper wind speed limit by characteristics alone (and even more due to the tralease)
- Very easy A4 stow
- More of a 'hang' feeling at the bar (think Duotone Slick vs Unit)
- Pressure relief, as the leash is the same length as arm length (no line stretch), resulting in less load when both hooked and unhooked
- O-ring hooks in smoothly and also releases easily when needed
This is on my 4.0. I did a similar mod on my 2.9, but with the 'V2-style' bar. I prefer this setup.
Thanks for sharing! very interesting. I have a few questions:
- How does the O-ring connection work?
- What do you mean with the 'hang' feeling?
- Does 'more forward flying' lead to better upwind? If so, is there a down side?
- What is the extra value of a leash? In my experience parawings don't need it at all.
Select to expand quoteRobert211 said..
For those interested, I'd like to share my (for now) final version of my BRM V1 modifications. The performance is really good. The wing flies more forward in the window and generates more of its own apparent wind.
The changes:
- BRM bridle mod
- Inclusion of a yoke for the B-lines
- Center 4 B-lines connected to the A-line attachment point
- "Wing-style" bar, which creates more of a 'hang' feeling
- Shorter bar as well
- Center 4 A-lines wrapped with Velcro
- Direct leash connection to the A-lines (and the 4 B-lines)
- Traleaze: Leash and trapeze line combined into one (with swivel & QR)
- O-ring as trapeze connector
- Silicone tube used as a stiffener
The advantages (compared to OG V1)
- More forward flying
- More apparent wind generated
- 'snaps back' more easy after pump
- Much less nervous/twitchy
- Stays in the 'happy place' more easily
- Higher upper wind speed limit by characteristics alone (and even more due to the tralease)
- Very easy A4 stow
- More of a 'hang' feeling at the bar (think Duotone Slick vs Unit)
- Pressure relief, as the leash is the same length as arm length (no line stretch), resulting in less load when both hooked and unhooked
- O-ring hooks in smoothly and also releases easily when needed
This is on my 4.0. I did a similar mod on my 2.9, but with the 'V2-style' bar. I prefer this setup.
Thanks for sharing! very interesting. I have a few questions:
- How does the O-ring connection work?
- What do you mean with the 'hang' feeling?
- Does 'more forward flying' lead to better upwind? If so, is there a down side?
- What is the extra value of a leash? In my experience parawings don't need it at all.
Select to expand quoteRobert211 said..
For those interested..
RolfB said..
Thanks for sharing! very interesting. I have a few questions:
- How does the O-ring connection work?
- What do you mean with the 'hang' feeling?
- Does 'more forward flying' lead to better upwind? If so, is there a down side?
- What is the extra value of a leash? In my experience parawings don't need it at all.
Hi! Nice you liked it.
> Hook in at chest with the WIP-hook. Think works with most chest-hooks. The orange part becomes the 'loaded' part, the rest hangs loose. Because it is a fixed form, it always hooks in. And because there is some weight behind it, if you want to unhook, you simply pull the bar towards you and it will always fall out. The silicon tube prevents the ring from going between the (ABC)lines.
> That the bar goes down at the two connection points. This enables more hand positions against the angled part and with normal flying your hand(s) is/are lower than the attachment points of the lines. Hard to explain, but feels like less nervousness in system.
> Yes, better angles and better ability to "push against the wing". Feel like it leads to better top-range as well. Think the trade-off is that the first pull down wind is less. But I feel like it creates more apparent wind, which counters that effect. It pops back better after a pump as well. So this counters and compensates the small loss in 'grunt' for me.
> Do you have experience with BRM single skins 
. They start pulling your arms off when they get in their upper limits. That is why I wanted a solution that would help hooked in as hooked out. Big plus: Because there is a fixed point to your body, it is (almost) impossible to tangle the wing. Normally problems start when the bar falls through the lines. Here you can follow the leash and pull it out. So quicker and more peace of heart as a bonus.
Cheers!
I thought about a similar system with a fixed leash attachement to your harness but using a clamcleat to transform it into a harness line
Select to expand quoteRobert211 said..Robert211 said..
For those interested..
RolfB said..
Thanks for sharing! very interesting. I have a few questions:
- How does the O-ring connection work?
- What do you mean with the 'hang' feeling?
- Does 'more forward flying' lead to better upwind? If so, is there a down side?
- What is the extra value of a leash? In my experience parawings don't need it at all.
Hi! Nice you liked it.
> Hook in at chest with the WIP-hook. Think works with most chest-hooks. The orange part becomes the 'loaded' part, the rest hangs loose. Because it is a fixed form, it always hooks in. And because there is some weight behind it, if you want to unhook, you simply pull the bar towards you and it will always fall out. The silicon tube prevents the ring from going between the (ABC)lines.
> That the bar goes down at the two connection points. This enables more hand positions against the angled part and with normal flying your hand(s) is/are lower than the attachment points of the lines. Hard to explain, but feels like less nervousness in system.
> Yes, better angles and better ability to "push against the wing". Feel like it leads to better top-range as well. Think the trade-off is that the first pull down wind is less. But I feel like it creates more apparent wind, which counters that effect. It pops back better after a pump as well. So this counters and compensates the small loss in 'grunt' for me.
> Do you have experience with BRM single skins . They start pulling your arms off when they get in their upper limits. That is why I wanted a solution that would help hooked in as hooked out. Big plus: Because there is a fixed point to your body, it is (almost) impossible to tangle the wing. Normally problems start when the bar falls through the lines. Here you can follow the leash and pull it out. So quicker and more peace of heart as a bonus.
Cheers!
Thanks for the explanation R211
. I have single skin BRMs and i know that feeling. Looking forward to give this mods a try as well soon.
I've changed the 4 middle B-lines to the A-line attachment and made the yoke on my Maliko 5.1. Unfortunately I couln't try it yet. I'm going to change the B-lines on my Ka'a 4.2m as well. Even more curious how that will work out.
