Yeah was totally sick
Two hours of clean sucky over head waves.
I did my usual swimming trick, Greenroom style
But there was no one else out to get in the way of.
Bomb sets breaking way out before the reef. Then rolling through and spewing onto the ledge.
Flogging in and punishing the approaching right hander was the go.
The strong south wind racing up the face of the waves making them super smooth and totally smackable.
All up Im stoked to be alive
