tips for gybing in subplaning conditions + chop

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sboardcrazy
sboardcrazy
NSW
8335 posts
NSW, 8335 posts
17 Oct 2009 5:47pm
I sail a 105ltre bump & jump board & am 65kgs odd.I can uphaul it if it isnt too choppy & Im very careful.Sailing in gusty 5 - 20kts winds .The wind drops to buggerall I'm out of the straps . I start to gybe with the rail weighted but then some chop will throw me off balance & I'll weight the other foot & go straight for a bit and then wobble all over the place trying to get my balance & the board under control & generally fall in..@#$$!!!!... If I try & use the sail as well I find it heavy & hard to control & generally lean too far back & fall off .
Gybing used to be so easy..?
ginger pom
ginger pom
VIC
1746 posts
VIC, 1746 posts
17 Oct 2009 6:10pm
sboardcrazy said...

I sail a 105ltre bump & jump board & am 65kgs odd.I can uphaul it if it isnt too choppy & Im very careful.Sailing in gusty 5 - 20kts winds .The wind drops to buggerall I'm out of the straps . I start to gybe with the rail weighted but then some chop will throw me off balance & I'll weight the other foot & go straight for a bit and then wobble all over the place trying to get my balance & the board under control & generally fall in..@#$$!!!!... If I try & use the sail as well I find it heavy & hard to control & generally lean too far back & fall off .
Gybing used to be so easy..?


what sort of a gybe are you talking about? Are you planing?

If you're not planing, then rail pressure will do nothing...

Sub planing gybe technique is this...

1 Head slightly upwind to a close reach
2 Move your backhand back around 2 foot
3 Straighten your front arm and your front leg
4 Bend your back arm and your back leg (rig will sheet in)
5 Lower your weight and touch your back hand against your ear to start the rotation
6 Step forward when you're on the new broad reach (this will be clewfirst)
7 Compose yourself a bit and find your balance
8 Flip the rig
nick0
nick0
NSW
510 posts
NSW, 510 posts
17 Oct 2009 6:42pm
i sail on a 75l board and i weigh 65 .. i handle chop by bending my knees huge .. and trying to bend ya knees as ya go over the chop and puch down hard on the other side to help keep ya board in contact with the water ..
Mobydisc
Mobydisc
NSW
9029 posts
NSW, 9029 posts
17 Oct 2009 7:15pm
I think Gingerpom is right. The key is to keep the sail powered up as much as possible to keep as a counter balance. Flip the sail after the turn.
swoosh
swoosh
QLD
1929 posts
QLD, 1929 posts
17 Oct 2009 7:52pm
subplaning in gusty conditions its easier to tack then gybe in my opinion. 65kg on a 105L board shouldn't be too hard with a little practise.
sharkbiscuit
sharkbiscuit
820 posts
820 posts
17 Oct 2009 6:12pm
I'm having the exact same problem as sboardcrazy at the moment. My main problem I gybe (planing) and the wind will hull unexpectedly (usually during my foot switch), the wave behind will then make me go faster than the wind at the critical time, the sail back drafts.. and a proverbial cropper ensures. I put another nice ding on my board before I giving up yesterday and going back to tacking .

GP: what do you mean by putting back hand against ear ?

Ja
Gestalt
Gestalt
QLD
14955 posts
QLD, 14955 posts
17 Oct 2009 8:14pm
it basically moves the coe and the sail way forward. ie. like a flare gybe on a longboard.

when you have no wind you are steering the board with the rig.
nebbian
nebbian
WA
6277 posts
WA, 6277 posts
17 Oct 2009 7:57pm
Here's a quick video of what those guys are talking about:



The only thing I'd say about this one is that the sailor's weight should come forward a bit earlier -- just before doing the flip is about right. When doing this sort of gybe on my 80 litre wave board you need to get your front foot right up to the mast foot pronto, or it all sinks backwards like the titanic.
sboardcrazy
sboardcrazy
NSW
8335 posts
NSW, 8335 posts
17 Oct 2009 11:15pm
If you're not planing, then rail pressure will do nothing...
Aha! I've certainly found I have to wrestle to get any result...Where are your feet supposed to be when you do all this? I can usually do those kinds of gybes in flat conditions or on a bigger board but find it easy to wreck on the smaller board in chop.
I'll try using the sail more to steer but I seem to always get into trouble when I start to try and manhandle sails..I've tried to keep sailing all winter so I'll be fit for summer but I think the lousy gusty conditions are just giving me bad habits! Since I started reading this forum & trying to gybe like everyone says to I just get worse..too much thinking..not enough instinct..
nick0
nick0
NSW
510 posts
NSW, 510 posts
17 Oct 2009 11:48pm
im no expert with my gybes but i allways keep my knees bent and sail sheeted in hard ... as my board passt dead down wind i step my old front foot into the new position imbetween front and back strap amd straight away ajust my font foot further forward .. ruffly equal with mast base .. come out clew first on a broad reach and flip rig when stable .. if over powed i keep further back on board a lil for the rig flip so i dont CATAPULT but the only way to get better at jybeing is by doing them .. al the time ... no tacks
pierrec45
pierrec45
NSW
2005 posts
NSW, 2005 posts
18 Oct 2009 12:30am
> If you're not planing, then rail pressure will do nothing...
> Where are your feet supposed to be when you do all this?


Concur with the fine instructions given above.
(I wished I didn't know these things, but I live in a place that goes from planing to non-planing very quickly - annoying.)

You pull yourself through with the sail only, the clew hand is that one that keeps the sail full. My son has this problem that he stops pulling the clew in, which stops the turning of the board. Not sure the video is that relevant - board too big, but that part is right: she keeps pulling the clew past windward as she turns around to keep it full.

Feet: they do little, as sinking of rail does nothing. However, in stronger non-planing, you will feel the twist of the body through your feet: this is what turns the board underneath. (Like many freestyle moves too.)

Technically, you can practice these kind of gybes... in planing conditions. Just slow the board before doing it. Methink the learning of some non-planing moves should take place in stronger conditions first.

I personally disagree that tacking should be done instead: both are useful to master (in these parts anyways).
Gestalt
Gestalt
QLD
14955 posts
QLD, 14955 posts
18 Oct 2009 12:41am
your feet stay pretty much in the same spot as when sailing. unless you standing up near the mast in which case you need to move back further on the board to initiate the transition. the thing is to make the transition fairly quick and throw the rig forward and to windward as ginger pom said.

the longer you stall the gybe or sail dead downwind, the more chance of falling off as the swells keep unbalancing the board. to start with it's ok to fall backwards into the water as you scissor the board. you will be in a clue first waterstart position. with practice you get used to it and learn to use the rig to stop yourself from getting wet.

i agree with pierrecs comments also. it can be very helpfull to sail along clew first to practice the technique. easiest way to do this is to come out of your normal gybes and just keep sailing along clew first. the local freestyle guys practice sailing along switch stance all the time.

with your normal carve gybe.....

i reckon you're right, thinking about it is a killer. i read somewhere (may have been guy cribb) that a gybe takes 4 seconds. so if you think about what you are doing it's too late to release the sail. like nicko i also usually start to change feet when pointing downwind. that is a step gybe. also try to keep my knees well bent.
just be carefull with the sheet in advice as this can lead to oversheeting the gybe and getting hammered on the sail flip. you need to start to sheeting out before you are pointing dead downwind.

that said, i am certainly no expert at gybes. i only really plane out of 2 or 3 in 10 gybes. people like guy cribb and Co are the experts. the 2 incorrect things i seem to do are 1. stall the gybe by not timing the rig rotation. 2. exit on a beam reach instead of a broad reach.

pierrec45
pierrec45
NSW
2005 posts
NSW, 2005 posts
18 Oct 2009 2:50am
Gestalt said...
(...) sail along clew first to practice the technique. easiest way to do this is to come out of your normal gybes and just keep sailing along clew first. the local freestyle guys practice sailing along switch stance all the time.

Gestalt is right, forgot about that part. The best way to get used to pulling the clew in for power in non-planing is sailing clew-first. And it is true that freestyle dudes do it all the times, in all situations.

In fact, on sails less than 6m, gybing whilst sailing clew-first (both planing or not) is both fun and useful to get the feel. Try it !

(You'z lucky, here is 0C and storing the gear away...)
sboardcrazy
sboardcrazy
NSW
8335 posts
NSW, 8335 posts
18 Oct 2009 1:20pm
If Im powered up for a planing gybe (with my rare good ones ) I usually change my feet after I have come out the other side & flipped the rig...Although I often end up with a foot in both front straps so i suppose I must change something... I think one problem I have is in the old days I used to do a large radius planing turn so i didnt lose speed.Now I am thinking so much of not losing ground upwind that maybe Im trying a too tight radius turn which then puts more weight/power in the sail...? I used to just get it carving flat out & then let the rig flip early & grab it as I came out planing..the rig would be weightless ..none of this pull the rig on & battle it as you do the gybe like I seem to do these days...
jp747
jp747
1553 posts
1553 posts
18 Oct 2009 12:57pm
nebbian said...

Here's a quick video of what those guys are talking about:



The only thing I'd say about this one is that the sailor's weight should come forward a bit earlier -- just before doing the flip is about right. When doing this sort of gybe on my 80 litre wave board you need to get your front foot right up to the mast foot pronto, or it all sinks backwards like the titanic.


just not looking at the vid but just the pi****his one's called a sink gybe..if sboardcrazy is wobbling all over the place then i can just presume there is no speed thru the gybe..so the vid will take over
FlickySpinny
FlickySpinny
WA
657 posts
WA, 657 posts
18 Oct 2009 2:18pm
I change my feet position prior to getting dead-downwind. This enables me to keep the board turning.

sboardcrazy
sboardcrazy
NSW
8335 posts
NSW, 8335 posts
18 Oct 2009 8:05pm
Flickyspinny said
I change my feet position prior to getting dead-downwind. This enables me to keep the board turning.
Is that in a planing or non planing gybe?
Leman
Leman
VIC
672 posts
VIC, 672 posts
18 Oct 2009 10:27pm
sharkbiscuit said...

I'm having the exact same problem as sboardcrazy at the moment. My main problem I gybe (planing) and the wind will hull unexpectedly (usually during my foot switch), the wave behind will then make me go faster than the wind at the critical time, the sail back drafts.. and a proverbial cropper ensures. I put another nice ding on my board before I giving up yesterday and going back to tacking .

GP: what do you mean by putting back hand against ear ?

Ja



If you end up catching a wave during a planing gybe (which I often do so I don't have to go over waves during crucial moments) the technique is more like surfing, in that you won't be using the wind in the sail as a counter force to lean against. In these cases you just have to be prepared to flip the sail with no resistance and find your balance without the sail. First few times it is quite exhilarating and scary so you tend to panic and fall off, just prepare for it. Once you flip the sail and head back across wind the sail will fill up again.

If you're really powered up in a flat water planing gybe and sheet in hard the sail will become weightless anyway as you go past the downwind mark, so it's good practice.
ginger pom
ginger pom
VIC
1746 posts
VIC, 1746 posts
18 Oct 2009 10:48pm
sboardcrazy said...

If Im powered up for a planing gybe (with my rare good ones ) I usually change my feet after I have come out the other side & flipped the rig...Although I often end up with a foot in both front straps


I don't think that's supposed to happen! Even on a strap to strap, you're supposed to take the old front out first
Gestalt
Gestalt
QLD
14955 posts
QLD, 14955 posts
18 Oct 2009 10:10pm
sboardcrazy said...

I used to just get it carving flat out & then let the rig flip early & grab it as I came out planing..the rig would be weightless ..none of this pull the rig on & battle it as you do the gybe like I seem to do these days...


i reckon you've answered your own question sbc.

in my mind and without seeing you you are not flipping early enough. try flipping earlier. if you are doing tighter arcs then you need to release the rig earlier still.
(planing gybe)
sboardcrazy
sboardcrazy
NSW
8335 posts
NSW, 8335 posts
20 Oct 2009 8:24pm
in my mind and without seeing you you are not flipping early enough. try flipping earlier. if you are doing tighter arcs then you need to release the rig earlier still.
(planing gybe)

It works! I went back to my old habits for the more powered up gybes & concentrated on turning the board & flipping early & in non planing I used the rig ..Mind you it makes a difference having a lovely consistent 10 - 15kt NE for once rather than 5kts or 30kts +!
Love the cat avator Gestault..it doesn't look happy!
Gestalt
Gestalt
QLD
14955 posts
QLD, 14955 posts
20 Oct 2009 9:16pm
i'm stoked things work out sbc

the cat isn't happy cause to be honest i am also guilty of not flipping the rig early enough . i know i'm doing it but i still do it.

there really is some quality advice from the guys above. i'm thinking ginger pom is actually guy crib.
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