ok maybe your right decrepit, years ago we used to have a windsurfing class in the state and nationals, that was called custom if the board was hand layed up, or production it it was factory molded layed ,what i was saying carbon art claims there a custom board not a production, now if you want a board made for you and have some changes like the footstraps in or out or back or forward or your own graffics then that board is custom made especialy for you, you dont have to be in the workshop and futher more say you rode a tabou and said that boards great but i'd like a bit more volume in front of the mast track do you think tabou would doit, on the other hand call james i want a 55 but can you stick a bit more volume in front of the track because i couldnt tack the one i tryed he would say sure its your board you can have what you want is there anything elese i can do for you sir
you dont have to be there 
yeah he is pretty receptive to slight changes to the established designs, allthough it may not be common knowledge.
i have had extra strap inserts installed further aft in my sp 50 and a mate has had a quote to doctor 1 of the sp boards to suit himself... so there can be little custom changes done. obviously the changes would add to the standard price.but thats still an awesome option to have with a quality product like the CA's.
hey dont quote me on that one i'm not saying he would but at least you can talk to the man whos shapeing your board, and im sure if you wanted a change that wouln't take any accredability away from the board go to the web site and ask the question
Back to the cutouts, and with you board modification knowledgable types there, I'm thinking of routering some cutouts into a bic techno slalom board, I only use it for marginal days but that seems fairly often. I've done plenty of glass/epoxy boat construction but I'm unsure of whats going on with the plasticy outer skin on the bic. I'm not too worried about cosmetics but wouldn't want to wreck the inner core with a botched leaking skin. Anyone cut into one of these and have advice whether to route or not to route?
Thanks
im not sure about the bic's but i put a epoxy non slip on a tiga and its still on there
but ill give you some advise about glassing them , only use unidirectional cloth too glass put two seperate layers the first thorizontal and the next vertical any other glass wont bend except for chop mat and get a small fiberglassing wheel
now youll have to ask decrepit, but you mite have to make the insert and glass it then let it cure, then bog it in, then glass over that so you dont get any glass on the bottom of your board
I'm not sure about the bic, there's different types of plastic finishes.
If it's only a thin layer of plastic over glass, you're probably OK.
But if it's a thick skin of plastic all the way thru, I'd leave it alone.
Unless you're really convinced it's going to make a huge improvement, probably not worth the risk of a failed bond and a water logged board.
The cutouts made a huge improvement on my speed board because it's the first one I've made/modified, and I had too much area behind the backfoot.
Hopefully the bic was designed for optimum angle of attack and cutouts may not make much difference, may even make it worse!
Have you tried moving foot straps all the way back?
Mast track all the way back as well?
If doing these improve your ride, and you think sinking the tail even further would improve it more, then maybe it's worth it.
mabe the best thing to do is to stick a bit of epoxy on the board not the bottom and see how it sticks, youll have to use a bit of heavy grit to get a good bond then after its cured dont sand it just see if you can chip it off, if it buts pull away from the board you know its plastic
Maybe I'll hold of till I can get more info on the layup and skinning of the original board then see if its worthwhile. As you infer Decrep its all a gamble anyway but then I like tinkering with these things. The board goes OK but at 69cm width the (don't look Nebbian) wetted surface aft could be alot reduced when planing.
Thanks for the input.
Nebbs (et al) are right. You wont reduce your planing area by installing cutouts. It will just move forward a tad - same as moving your footstraps and fin back a notch.
That's why you sand the plastic off the glass, then you're not trying to stick to plastic.
Well where you have glass to glass bond, that takes any tensile loads, then the fairing back to old plastic levels shouldn't have any stress. If it's well roughed up, should be OK.
when i did a noslip on my tiga i roughed it up with a hacksaw blade the epoxy bonded great
Thanks guys, I suspect the Tiga's would be of similar construction and yes someone must have at least done a nose job on a toughskin type board, though they are pretty tough
Ian K said cutouts
i found a pic(only the top) there at the back of the foot straps probabley at the back of the fin to stop cavitation the board weighs 4.5kgs
well they do say give or take 6% www.surfstore.co.uk/acatalog/Surf_Store_UK_F2_Windsurfing_Boards_2008_38.html
