Bad luck Duncan - that's a sweet looking board.

www.boardlady.com/waterextraction.htm

Good luck.

Gestalt said...

i'd get that vacuum onto it asap.

Don't do that, you'll flatten the board quick smart unless you drill a hole at each end to allow air to get into the middle.

thanks for the advice.

i will be home soon. the plan is pop on the vac with two very small holes ether end.
the vac pump i have is used to evacuated ac systems so is dam sucky and i am paranoid it will suck in the board. putting holes in it will mean however it will be unable to pull a vacume there fore evaporation will not hapen??, thus the hole are going to be very small.

i don't know originall wieght but i will do before and after.

if all seems to fail i will grab a motor, open up the holes, strap her down and give it a spin.

really is a shame.... oh well

If using a vac pump, put a big hole in one end (6-8mm).

Then a hose barb rammed in there and abit of silicone to seal it, with a hose running to a box of moisture absorber like Dri-sorb or whatever it is called - from Bunnings etc. Then you are sucking dry air thru the board and you will get a lot more water out.

Then epoxy that hole up and do it again with the hole in the other end

Sailhack said...

...and don't stress too much about the board. If you remove the moisture quickly it won't have long lasting issues. I've just retired a 2004 board that has had water issues for about 4 years (compression issues/multiple footscrew delam & leaks) and apart for it getting worse over the past 12 months, it was very sailable (after drying it out after each session). I'm keen to run a saw through it to see what long-term damage the moisture has caused...will post pics if I do.

agreed - but I will add that now it has a bit of moisture in it (after removal processes above) that some people feel it is much more likely to need the vent screw undone when it is hot.
With all the potential problems, it is just worth having the vent open all the time on all boards from new, when not sailing (except for maybe winter).

DunkO said...

putting holes in it will mean however it will be unable to pull a vacume there fore evaporation will not hapen??, thus the hole are going to be very small.

If you're getting that from The Board lady then ignore it, as she is wrong.

TBL sail

Vacuum Drying
My preferred weapon

By creating a partial vacuum on the exterior of the board, the steam pressure of the water inside becomes greater than the exterior pressure. This causes the water to migrate to the surface, from where it gets carried into a generous, baffled trap, ensuring that it will not get into the pump.

So basically she just pulls a vacuum on the board and thinks this will get the water out. The Board Lady needs to spend more time on Wiki..

This chart is from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapour_pressure_of_water. And shows how much extra evaporation you get from reducing the pressure (hint:not much before the board collapses)



Below is a mock up of the data which is hopefully self explanatory..


So that's a very fancy way to remove a few moles of H2O from a board. Once the vacuum is pulled, there is no air flow through the board (of course no board is water tight, which is why The Board Lady's bords eventually dry out. LOL.

As Mark and Fnova said, passing air through the board is far better. And the hotter, and drier the air, the better..

(I wouldn't recommend this with a fridge pump as they will spit all their oil out and blow up if they are run nonstop..)

Looking forward to the results.

i can assure you that vacuming a sealed system will evaporate moisture, its how we remove it from closed ac systems but we bring them down to 500 microns which is about 0.0007 atmospheres. obviously that is going to flattern a board!

the pump i am using is capable of this, so i have decided to not leave the board sealed.

there is heaps of vapour coming out now. as for protecting the pump, i think i should turn it of as the oil is cloudy which indicates its full of moisture. these pumps can handle this with regular oil changes.

DunkO said...

i can assure you that vacuming a sealed system will evaporate moisture, its how we remove it from closed ac systems but we bring them down to 500 microns which is about 0.0007 atmospheres. obviously that is going to flattern a board!

the pump i am using is capable of this, so i have decided to not leave the board sealed.

there is heaps of vapour coming out now. as for protecting the pump, i think i should turn it of as the oil is cloudy which indicates its full of moisture. these pumps can handle this with regular oil changes.

If you want to build a water trap, a length of 50mm(?) high pressure pvc works well with two ends glued on. You thread a couple of fittings into the pvc, and run the vacuum through it.

I also used this to go from the normal hvac fittings to normal air line fittings. With a tap/valve on the bottom, I can drain the water when needed.

Ive done all of the above and unless you have a couple of years to wait your not going to get all of the moisture out of the board , if you seal it with moisture there's a good chance it will delam, from my experience styrene is insulation and you will find in the sun the outside of the board is hot and any water that comes out is cold, the board needs to be opened up and the core exposed and then resealed and use a gore tex vent just in case there is still moisture

DunkO said...

i can assure you that vacuming a sealed system will evaporate moisture, its how we remove it from closed ac systems but we bring them down to 500 microns which is about 0.0007 atmospheres. obviously that is going to flattern a board!

the pump i am using is capable of this, so i have decided to not leave the board sealed.

Yeah we know that from the vapour pressure chart. Bring the pressure down enough and the water will boil.

Problem is if you don't pull a hard enough vacuum the body of water in the board will sit at equilibrium, until the end of the Universe.

As Decrepit said, 1/4 atmosphere is safe, any more and the water will come out because there is zero space inside.

This is just an observation and doesn't help you get the water out but i don't know why ALL boards don't have the vent screw set up the way my JP boards do and it would save anything like this happening in the first place. On my boards the vent screw in just behind the mast track so if you undo the screw half way the board still breathes but you can't get the mast base in next time you go to rig up unless you do the screw up because it sits up above the deck of the board. I have noticed that some other brands of board have the vent screw in front of the track so it's possible to rig up and leave it open. Maybe there is a reason but i don't know what it is.
The JP position only makes a difference if you don't take the screw out all the way too but i don't because 1 it won't get lost and 2 i won't be sailing with a loose vent screw.
Yes i know some of you would rather sail with another board brand full of water than sail a dry JP but regardless of what you think i recon it's a good safety measure. I used to leave my vent screws done up all the time because i was worried about forgetting to do them up but since i realised the deal with the mast base they are always undone when not in use.

sell the board![}:)]

What.... EVO's are hollow! Really?

Dungbeetle said...

What.... EVO's are hollow! Really?

Only a few, maybe in 2007? Not sure if they were production, but the fact that they put the bung in the nose meant they were prepared for the water..

You always hear people say hollow boards 'take on water'. I'm not sure if they take on any more water than regular boards. It's just that you notice it sloshing around on the inside, whereas foam boards absorb it..

Maybe they should put a bung front and back, and JP-austria could sell JP-vac pumps that just plug in, all profesional like..

THE RIGHT STUFF FOR RADICAL SUCTION.

----


Another argument for not taking the bung out is that when the board heats up there is less air inside, then when you tighten the bung and take it sailing, the board cools down..

This creates a partial vacuum inside the board so that when you ding it, it sucks the outside in. Exactly what you don't want..

this afternoon i resumed vacuming the board. replaced the filthy oil from yesterday. due to the high humidity i devised a plan to very cautiously let dry nitrogen through the hole i had drilled. dry nitrogen is great at absorbing moisture. i had the nitro set very low through a regulator.
i had the system up and running and it was working perfectly, heaps of vapour coming out of the pump.

see my set up below



well i totally f#c!ed it up.

went to the loo, then took a phone call and on my return some how the nitogen pressure had gone up. basically it prssurised the board and blew it to pieces.
totally gutted...

i can't get how the thin bits of blue tack didn't give way first.

pretty stupid really.

sorry to hoops and jas at nude for destroying a piece of art work that really ripped in the waves. i would get another in a heartbeat but time and funds are not on my side.

two very tough lessons learnt.