Sand back area, tape off area, lightly wet with epoxy resin, sprinkle castor sugar over, let dry, hose off rest

choco said...

I have used bote cote epoxy resin with UV stabilised hardner, using this type of hardner stops the deck from going yellow, as Hardie said sand back old grip, tape up the area and lightly(read very thin) roll on the resin, leave it for a few minutes to wet out and then using a sieve spread on the castor sugar, leave overnight before washing off but remove the tape after the resin starts gelling.

... has someone thought about PU? It's usually UV resistant by nature...

I have used a spray from a hardware store. It's what is used to make tiles, bath tubs etc. grippier/slip resistant. The surface profile is now like very fine sandpaper.
Enough grip for me as a beginner (as long as it is free of sun cream).

Sailhack said...

I simply used polyurethane clear lacquer (timber coat, sprayed on) & run of mill table sugar thrown on top...no yellowing.

Definitely tape around edges & deck pads.

+1,
I have re-gripped with polyester resin, epoxy resin, and just recently polyurethane clear lacquer sprayed on then sprinkled with caster sugar. I was impressed how grippy this last method was. It felt really smooth on land and I was worried it wasn't going to be adequate, but on the water it was very grippy, without feeling coarse.

There's also the European Rigo Non slip, roll on in a can and specifically made for sailboards but I've only read about it. www.tropicalwatersports.com.au/shop/popup_image.php?pID=315&osCsid=7cdc3432f46b82074516b2d3216f2372

Easty's grip tape looks cool. Is that the bathtub tape or the coarser ones used on steps?

Sailhack's and Mecky's idea of the PU in a can + castor sugar sounds good (economical) too.

Thanks for all the tips!! I'll give it a go.

nosinkanow said...


Easty's grip tape looks cool. Is that the bathtub tape or the coarser ones used on steps?

Not bathtub tape, I got it from a fiberglass supply shop, think it's for transom steps on boats, it's quite coarse (provides ample grip under booties).
Initially, after research here, I decided on Hardies method, but all the castor sugar soaked up resin, and I ended up with a jelly like mass of partially resin soaked sugar on the board. Had to strip it again. Maybe I had too much resin? (Didn't appear so when I applied it) Thoughts welcome.

Choco,
As the epoxy resin has a high viscosity, what is the best way of ensuring you get a really thin coat i.e. sponge roller or do you brush it on then screed it out with a tongue depressor (big paddlepop stick ) or something similar?

sausage said...

Choco,
As the epoxy resin has a high viscosity, what is the best way of ensuring you get a really thin coat i.e. sponge roller or do you brush it on then screed it out with a tongue depressor (big paddlepop stick ) or something similar?

snaggs i have always thinned the resin with 1/3 paint thinners, there's a myth that says its a no no but it works for me, just thin it down so its nice and runny and brush it on here's my last board with a non slip divinycell dust deck the main thing is too thoroughly clean the deck ," before you give me a red thumb do a test piece first"

Mecky said...

club309 said...

mask off the board. use clear 2 part polyurethane (from a chandlery or paint supplier). they will also have fine silica non-slip material which you can add to the paint or sprinkle on afterwards. if you want to have matte finish add flattening paste. you can either roll or spray it on

I would be very careful with silica non-slip material - it might be to harsh on your naked feet or legs (if, I would use only very small (< 0.2mm) and round grains); again me as a beginner speaking - you guys all waterstart anyway

I've thought the idea behind the sugar is that it desolves and leaves a rough resin surface...

As Mecky says, definitely don't use a 'solid' material in the resin. I tried that and it was crap, also very hard to remove afterwards. Sugar is ideal as it is a 'squarish(?)' crystal and dissolves, leaving tiny pits in the resin which stays very grippy, and won't shred your skin. Also, as there's no 'grit' residue in the resin, it easily sands off later when you want to re-grip, or if you have to do some maintenance on your board.

In saying that, I like Easty's idea too!

^ Nice work Choco - Ned wont be giving the slip anymore. I assume this is your Gun board too


Keef,
Not having any divinyl cell I think I'll go the castor sugar route. Out of interest though, does using paint thinner (acetone??) with the epoxy effect it's curing properties significantly.

and here's my segue

snags im not up with the tech side but from my experience it's not a problem , i imagine its like thinning down 2pak to spray, for e,g f,g,i bring out a product called xylol used to clean up, it will break the epoxy down where as thinners just thin, here's another e,g if you clean a paint brush up in strait thinners and leave it without cleaning it in detergent it will dry stiff, the best way is to do a test, i think i used more than 50% on the board in the pic
with a mix of 50% don't use a foam roller or it will disintegrate and leave bits of foam every where

barn said...

Man, that's a board that's seen a lot of love!