Found this after I got of the plane and after I went for a sail.

Obviously the carbon has cracked and the divinyl cell but is the another layer before you get to styro foam? There is definitely some water in there but trying to assess how much, and what type of temporary repair to get myself going again.

So how thick Is the laminate typically and how can I know if is letting water through to the core ?

Thanks

I would have thought that would have sucked a heap of water. I've had dings way smaller than that have taken water. Pm dunko he has a patented way of blowing water out of a board.

Haha. What? You don't endorse it?????

the laminate is typically 3mm sometimes 5mm. I disagree with Mark here, I think that damage looks bad enough to let water into the core.
I also disagree with keith, if it isn't damaged through to the core and you leave the bung in, you could cause more damage. My advice is to pick out the loose fractured stuff first, that way you've got a good chance of seeing if the inner layer of glass is broken. If you can't tell like that, store it somewhere, so the damage is the lowest point and see how much water leaks out, (with the bung out).
If you're convinced the inner layer is holed, then try keiths method, bung in, in the sun, still with the damage at the lowest point. heating the board should force water out. Using a towel or something else absorbent as a wick could also help. If you can get the towel in contact with the wet core, and leave a reasonable amount of it in a breeze, that will also help.
If you know anybody with a vacuum pump, that's the quickest way.

If you like, bring it to me and I'll vac it out. Least time you leave water in a board the better.
Pm'd you
Cheers

I had a smaller ding than that & it took in water.

Leave it ding facing down, tape multiple thickness's of paper towel to act as wick when not vacuuming water out of hole.
Then use your vacuum cleaner (with swim towel over end to seal) at regular intervals to suck water out.
may take a week or so but very effective.
Then Knead it.

Mark _australia said..

keef said..
what you have is the core , glass ,divinicell, glass, the glass over the divinicell has a filler coat and a sealer , the glass over the core hasn't, so if you have a fracture in the divinicell water will get into the core

If the d'cell is fractured, but not the glass under it, how does water then get to the styro?

In my experience if the pvc foam is fractured, so too will the glass under it be. More often than not that glass binder under the foam is not impervious to air and water due to pinholes. Just one pinhole can take in plenty of water. Its also common to find a pinhole through the pvc - anomalies in the cell structure.

racerX said..



Found this after I got of the plane and after I went for a sail.

Do you mean that the board was damaged on the airplane, but you did not notice when next rigged up to sail and you only noticed once you came back ashore?

If this is the case, how long had you sailed with the damaged board?

Mark _australia said..
>>>>

If the d'cell is fractured, but not the glass under it, how does water then get to the styro?

I agree with Keef here, the inner layer is only thin, 2 to 4oz at the most, it's been vacuumed on, any excess resin has been sucked into the core, there's bound to be pinholes between the weave.
And I agree with Mr overboard, the strong carbon on the outside is seriously damaged, the sandwich foam is very depressed, there's very little chance the weak inner glass has survived intact.

RacerX best thing to do is take up Manoverboard's offer of a vacuum suck out.

Mark don't forget temperature drop, if you put a hot board in cold water, it's going to suck! It's not just capillary action.

Mark _australia said..

dry styro will suck that much if you leave the vent open for a month in north queensland.

So leaving the vent open in humid areas is bad? Really bad?

I tend to leave mine open because humid areas usually also equal hot sheds and hot cars. Bad idea?

After reading through the replies, and looking at the damage, it was clear that the water had got into the core, to make matters worse i also discovered a crack on the deck, that I could only see, after leaving the board in the sun...

Dropped the board over to Adam (manoverboard), as it's a nice board, hard to replace.

400ml of water later, and board all fixed. Very pleased !!!

These are some step by step photos of the deck repair Adam did, if your interested.

I take back everything I said above now I realise it was a Skate TE. The bottom on them is egg shell.

Agree decrep, that was a bloody hard hit on the deck !!