Your first concern should be not having something go through the back of your head!

Yeah I meant I didn't want it all coming through the front cabin and killing us. I had a look at the plastic joiners and alum frame but thought it would come apart to easily in an accident . My thoughts were to build something strong enough and anchored down well enough so that it basically stays in the back if I have a frontal collision. Maybe I will go with the aluminium and just drive slower.

Here's the fit out in my iload.

I used the click it square aluminium, along with the plastic joiners. The supports are some hefty aluminium L pieces, bolted into place. I found if everything sits tight (the frame in the car) it cant move around on its own. As for the problem with everything moving forward in an accident, I dont know, mines got a cargo barrier. I have seen another fit out in an iload, made of wood where the frame was bolted onto the floor using the bolts for the cargo securing rings, that might be the go?

Its not actually bolted in anywhere. The sides are hard up agaist the recesses for the side roller doors with some boat carpet padding things up, and the front (of the wood bed) sits up against the cargo barrier hence there's no free movement/flexing. The four outer legs and the square they form/join at the top are the square click-its, everything else is L beam,

As you say, not having the cargo barrier means it joins you up front in a crash, the legs could be moved in, to allow them to be bolted to the cargo securing rings, but then you lose board space in the configuration I've got. Im guessing your van has the securing points for the cargo barrier, Inset in the floor and above both the sliding doors? Maybe the securing points could be used to attach the frame to, rather than having to buy a cargo barrier. I can PM you some more pics in the morning (when theres some daylight) if you like....

G'day Bill. In my van I first laid a layer of lino to catch and water from the gear, then a layer of marine carpet on top of that to soak any water, so it doesn't 'swish' around while driving. The theory is that the carpet will eventually dry and the water won't soak through to the van body. Have had the van 1yr and seems to be working!

On top of the base layer I made a rack out of builders ply and glued on some thin interior vehicle carpet from Bunnings, to prevent damage to gear. Again the idea is the carpet acts as a sponge for any moisture and it slowly dries. To shelves are screwed together with stainless screws as a single piece which is locked in place around the wheel arches. I often stack gear all the way to the roof when we go camping, so I opted for the cargo cage to stop gear coming through into the front cab.

(There are no barriers between the cargo bay and cabin unless you have a cargo barrier installed, just the back of the seats)

probably a difference between countries, here any cargo area has to be separated from the cabin.
All I loads are delivered with these :
(that's a 6 seater)



easily removable but then you're air conditioning the all van !!

seanhogan said...

(There are no barriers between the cargo bay and cabin unless you have a cargo barrier installed, just the back of the seats)

probably a difference between countries, here any cargo area has to be separated from the cabin.
All I loads are delivered with these :
(that's a 6 seater)



easily removable but then you're air conditioning the all van !!

They call that 6 seater the crew van here

I used 25x25 alum angle running along walls of van (Iload). Angle is upside down so cross bearer sit in. Fastened to van with these cool bolts with a large sort of pop rivet backing that expands behind the wall skin of van. Can take them out easy. Can't remember what they are called. (Someone help me out.)

20 mm alum box tubing as cross bearers drop into the angle across the van. Used about six from memory. Cut a large sheet of ply which drops of top of bearers and sits snug inside angle as well.

Up front of van, where doors open , I made legs to support the end of rails which are bolted together (use spring washers). These legs base sit on the little step section of doors in Iload. I used hard cistern washers as a base for the angle.

Ply sheet bolted down at ends through cross bearers and through rail. Got heavy rubber matting over the whole lot which catches all the sand and salt water. Rip your gear out and leave doors open for salt water to evaporate then use a soft broom and sweep out all sand, dry salt.

The whole thing minus the side rails can be taken out in about ten minutes.

I didn't put permanent separate board shelves in mine. I can fit four boards and masts under the "false floor" plenty of room up top for sails, gear, more board and a single mattress etc. I did it this way as with no specific board sections I can get more versatile use for camping trips etc - all gear goes underneath and can still have double mattress up top. I think on trips we have had about 12 boards, 12 sails, booms and everything else plus personal gear with easy access.

Also made a set of internal "roof racks" out of the same alum box tube and alum angle brackets . Allow me to store sails up top (4 or 5) without them getting crushed.

Got photos somewhere but on other computer.

I'm happy with this set up.

Cheers,
EB

Use wood.

Issa said...
Rust proofing your vans? I have heard fish oil is the best protection against rust on the floor of your van. Wouldn't fish oil stink to high heaven? Have just learnt that WD40 is nothing more than fish oil. Has anyone sprayed WD40 on the floor of their van? Did it stink? So many questions. Baywavebill, what has your experience been?

Fish oil eventually loses a lot of its smell after time, although I noticed it sometimes on a very hot day. You used to use it so that it would get into areas that were hard to get at and coat them.

Nowdays you can get deodorized fish oil, although I have never tried it.

WD40 is not the same as fish oil. Who told you that?