I've heard so many different opinions on this, so please don't think me rude, but I'd like some advice from someone who KNOWS the answer to this question.

I've got a couple of very minor bumps (3mm hairline crack on nose, etc.) that I'd like to patch. They are so minor that you would almost not bother, but I just want to be sure no water can leak in.

Because there is virtually no visible damage to the board, I want to use something that will not be visible. I am thinking of using "ultra clear" araldite which can be purchased in a teeny weeny 4ml syringe that would be sufficient for my need.

I know it is epoxy, but it rarely gets a mention here, and I have heard some adverse anecdotal comments that I am not sure were based on any reliable knowledge. Is there any reason not to use Araldite?

Thanks,
Harrow.

Hmm, yes, I think you are right. Alraldite always stays kind of rubbery, and now I think of it, I also remember having it peel off things later, so I guess it is not really an equivalent product.

Gee, how crappy. Why doesn't it go hard like other epoxies? (Maybe if I added a little Viagra to it...)

You can also try an international product called Epifill . It is a white 2 pack filler i have used it heaps and it works well. Easy to sand and stays white

Harrow said...

So, my hopes of something clear that will not be visible seem to be fading....?

Your right, however, I have used the product you want to use, (got it from work) put it on two dents in board,(holes) and so far so good, can see it but its not that visible. Will eventually get the board repaired correctly but it does the job OK.
Mineral.
Other than that patch it and paint it

monster said...

hi harrow use this stuff - sellys aqua kneead it is a hand kneadable , specialty epoxy repair system,once mixed together it can be moulded to shape for long lasting repairs to damp, wet or underwater substates. it can be used on fibreglass ,metal ,wood concrete ,glass , it will not yellow sets white ,easy to paint, when fully cured it can be machined drilled ,sawed,sandrd ,filed poberly what decrept wants on his finns regards bazz

Sets white? You mean that green looking stick??

I was after the easy way out. My board is blue, and I was hoping I could just run the clear stuff over the almost invisible crack and not have to do any sanding or painting to fix the appearance.

i build custom fishing rods the stuff you are talking about is called co polemer it is not uv sabilized so will turn yellow and fall of

For small-medium cracks where you just want to seal it and not provide any serious structural support, you can dribble on standard Super Glue. It stays hard and clear.

clear nail polish

go to the pharmacy or myer, punce around the cosmetics with a limp wrist and the shopchicks will recommend the hardest one for you pumpkin.

otherwise try ocean and earths solarcure epoxy(no mixing)

Oh my. So MUCH bad advice.

Read the question people, he wants to seal a hairline crack just for safety (it hasn't gone thru to the polystyrene (probably not even thru the divinycell)

(1) Knead It and similar will be hopeless as you can't force it into a hairline crack and you'll end up with a lump sitting above the deck surface. Even wiping the excess off before it sets will look bad

(2) araldite is epoxy. So is QuikSteel for repairng engines. Doesn't mean it is useful for board repairs, GLUE (araldite from a hardware store) is totally different to laminating resin and a hardware salesman will not have a clue.

You need a proper marine epoxy like West Systems, West 105 resin and 205 or 206 hardener will be tops.
The adavantage is that when u need to do a proper full on repair you'll have some left.
However to fill a crack as Harow has described, where it guaranteed it is only a hairline thru the paint, a clear superglue or styrene (surfboard type) resin will be OK. Not ideal, but OK. Don't even think about using it if may contact the polystyrene core though.

Harrow,

Araldite is a two part epoxy resin, it just has a higher viscosity than the resin manufacturers use for laminating thus it will not run as easily into small cracks. Like all epoxy resins, including west sytems, it is not uv resitant and will yellow over time (west systems 105 resin and 207 hardener have better uv resistance but will still yellow eventually). You could try a vinyl ester resin, while bonding is better than a polyester on epoxy bonding is a risk still but less yellowing. If you want to make the resin run more just warm it first, this will reduce the viscosity but will also reduce the time to gel and harden; so work faster.

If it is a hairline fracture you could lightly sand the crack (200 grit? ) so as not to remove the paint too much and then just apply a small amount of resin (paddle pop stick or small bit of eva foam). Remove any residue around crack before sanding and after (acetone good for this but you only need a small amount as can remove paint if applied too much).

More advanced (larger cracks): If you want to get a super smooth you can apply a little clear plastic (dry cleaning plastic is tops for this) over the araldite (or resin), stretch it out and then tape the edges of the plastic down keeping it stretched but not tearing. Then you can work the epoxy with the plastic on top removing any air by working it out of the resin.

If you want to slow the yellowing process just keep applying a wax over the top. Products which protects finishes from UV will help but must be applied often as they will wash off gradually in the water.

I wouldn't use kneadit for a hairline crack; resin better option.

Quick fix: use clear araldite and use something like surfers seal skin (www.shapers.com.au) to reduce uv effect.

Permanent: very light sand, laminating epoxy (e.g. west systems 105R/207H or FGI R180/Surf set curative), sand, use UV filtered vanish or 2 pack polyurethane clear over top.

I don't think i want to see a picture of Harrow's crack

What an idiot I am!! (if the Avatar did not already give that away.)

A photo...of course!!!! It will be here tonight.

My point exactly. Harrow said he wanted the real story yet still people post all the way they think things may sort of work OK because the hardware guy who has never seen a composite structure reckons it is OK, or it worked on a hammer.

For god's sake Harrow, talk to Decrepit or Juice (who build boards). Then again I suggested the same to the last guy who asked on these forums and he tried a sealant used to glue bits onto boats.

I give up.

some good discussion here.

one point is "building boards is fun, repairing them is not"

1. fill hairline cracks with a clear thin fast drying liquid

2. proper repairs need to be ground back to the undamaged substrata, filled ,laminated and resurfaced.

there is no quick fix in this case.

it's a shame mark australia is giving up, we will all miss him.

Super glue would be be the go for a hairline crack that doesn't come under too much stress,the only type worth buying you get from hobby shops.It can be bought in thin,medium,thick.They also sell fillers to go with the glue,but for a hairline crack use the thin apply a small amount and it just runs easily into the crack and spreads.If the crack is wider use baking soda (from grocery store) dust a small amount into the crack to fill it, brush or blow away the excess then put a small drop of thin super glue onto the baking soda ,it will run all the way along the crack react with the baking soda and end up hard as a rock(so make sure you don't have excess baking soda)it can be sanded if necessary.Do some trial runs on scrap before the important job,don't let super glue anywhere near polystyrene foam it eats it.I would only use this method under non stress situations ,the board not you.

Mark if i post a photo of MY crack can you still give me advise?