How to remove contact cement stain?

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nosinkanow
nosinkanow
NSW
441 posts
NSW, 441 posts
8 Oct 2010 1:24am
Just giving this new to me old board a tidy up and it has a couple of, what I think, is contact cement stains in the grip deck. What is the best way to get this off? It is below the bumps and I don't want to use abrasives for obvious reasons. I'm unsure to use solvents as it may eat away at the paint and epoxy. Any ideas?
Sailhack
Sailhack
VIC
5000 posts
VIC, 5000 posts
8 Oct 2010 10:52am
Prepsol? We used to use paint thinners...prob not the best option!

CRC will soften it...so will a heatgun/hairdryer (not at same time...OK?!). Find a small patch to test on first.
nosinkanow
nosinkanow
NSW
441 posts
NSW, 441 posts
8 Oct 2010 1:58pm
OK sounds good, also thought of using a fingr nail brush to scrub it out, shouldn't remove the grippy grit stuff. I've used WD40 to remove paper stickers from glass but the glue in those is weak...it might work, I'm reluctant to use heat at the moment. I'll give it a go. Thanks.
Mark _australia
Mark _australia
WA
23651 posts
WA, 23651 posts
8 Oct 2010 1:04pm
Any solvent that will dissolve it wil probably attack the paint.
There is a product called GlueRid that is specifically for contact cements - it is basically Toluene.

hairdryer - maybe. Heat gun - no!! Epoxy softens considerably at about 80deg and a heat gun will get it to that temp really damn fast

May be easier to lightly spray paint it if it is just white.

FYI if anyone is gluing pads on....... there is now Kwik Grip Advanced which sets clear not yellow, plus it is stronger, and even better it is water based so you can spread it on with your fingers and just wash your hands. It goes on like wood work glue (like aquadhere etc)
No more stringy yellow sh!t hanging off popsticks as you spread it, and trying so hard not to get it anywhere else on the board. As we know gluing pads on is always a nightmare and you still get yellow crap somewhere ..... I just used the new product recently and it was a dream.
T 11
T 11
TAS
811 posts
TAS, 811 posts
8 Oct 2010 6:46pm
We use about 40L of contact a week installing commercial vinyl flooring and Anchorweld 901 glue remover is fairly gentle or even turps will get it off but use plenty of detergent to wash off the residue after.
nosinkanow
nosinkanow
NSW
441 posts
NSW, 441 posts
8 Oct 2010 7:14pm
Mark _australia said...


FYI if anyone is gluing pads on....... there is now Kwik Grip Advanced which sets clear not yellow, plus it is stronger, and even better it is water based so you can spread it on with your fingers and just wash your hands.


Thanks buddy (sarcasm), I just glued on a home-made nose pad to my Cross last night with the gunky yellow ****e! After the last surf episode on the Kona I need as much protection as possible. A bit too chunky at 20mm all up (dual density EVA). But I'd like to see a mast ding this nose, the dual density should cushion the blow nicely. Knowing me it's going to miss the pad and wack the rail instead!




Stains, no I didn't do it when I glued the nose pad, are around 20¢ piece size each. It's a an eye sore. I did try the WD40 and nail brush with no luck. I'll try turps as T11 suggested. If all else fails I'll light spray it white.




Windxtasy
Windxtasy
WA
4019 posts
WA, 4019 posts
8 Oct 2010 6:37pm
nice job on the nose pad!
nosinkanow
nosinkanow
NSW
441 posts
NSW, 441 posts
9 Oct 2010 12:40am
Windxtasy said...

nice job on the nose pad!


Thanks Windxtasy, but don't look too closely! Electric sanders and a Dremel tool just love to grip the foam and go berserk, especially when you have two density foams stuck together.
nosinkanow
nosinkanow
NSW
441 posts
NSW, 441 posts
11 Oct 2010 2:15am
Turps and a scrubbing brush didn't work, even after letting the turps sit for 30 minutes. I'm gonna touch it up with paint.
FormulaNova
FormulaNova
WA
15100 posts
WA, 15100 posts
11 Oct 2010 5:25am
Mark _australia said...


FYI if anyone is gluing pads on....... there is now Kwik Grip Advanced which sets clear not yellow, plus it is stronger, and even better it is water based so you can spread it on with your fingers and just wash your hands. It goes on like wood work glue (like aquadhere etc)
No more stringy yellow sh!t hanging off popsticks as you spread it, and trying so hard not to get it anywhere else on the board. As we know gluing pads on is always a nightmare and you still get yellow crap somewhere ..... I just used the new product recently and it was a dream.


I have got to disagree 100%. I used this to stick the pads back on my thommen after some footstrap insert surgery, and it was a pain. It will only set if both sides are completely dry. Unlike normal contact cement, this stuff doesn't seem to just grip, and is more like a paste, or as Mark has said, aquadhere.

It will only go clear when absolutely dry, and this means that you can have white fluid come out of your pads for a little while.

Maybe I didn't let it set enough before I used it, but I wasn't happy with it at the time.

I might give it another try with some scraps and see how it goes, but it is definitely different in the way you need to apply it compared to regular contact cement.
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