Sorry it's too hard to see exactly what's happened there.
It looks like it may just be the top layer of bog/paint that's lifted off.
If that's so and the fibreglass underneath isn't damaged at all, then all it needs is a light sand and some new bog/paint.
If the fibreglass is cracked or damaged, the damage needs to be sanded out and re-glassed.

i agree with decrepit

though i can't imagine anyone bogging a spot on their board for nothing, i'd be guessing it has probably been squashed by something at the least

if you put the bung in it, stick it in the sun for a couple of hours and see if any moisture comes out. if nothing comes out, forget the spot even exists......... and go for a sail (or bog it back up)

a bit of exposed glass up the nose gives better grip for vulcans

speaking of whistles...
after my last sail I removed the vent plug from the board and when I put the board in the car there was a very audible whistling sound coming from the vent - like a whistling kettle. I haven't noticed it before. Is this a bad sign?

I took about 20 pictures but that was the best one...

www.imagetree.com.au/photography.html

DavMen said...

I took about 20 pictures but that was the best one...

www.imagetree.com.au/photography.html

Smart arse

sell it to me for next to nothing mate im not fickle about cosmetic stuff hahaha you know that just look at me

Hi leftfield. Regarding one of the previous posts. Please don't use a router,gas torch or any carbon on this repair. If you do I'll expect to see you at our shed sometime soon.
It looks like a very basic repair. All you need to do is sand it back, 1 or 2 layers of 6oz cloth then fill and paint. If that doesn't make sense then message me and I can show you what to do if you're keen to do it your self.
I wouldn't normally reply to this but I can see some carnage happening if you start hacking into it with a router and a blow torch.

Agree with Hoops last thing that needs is a router. A sand back with 60 grade to get rid of any loose crap and see how ddep the loose crap goes, then glass with epoxy resin.

Sorry P.C have a call technicality there - it is not the heat that does it, it is the fact that polyester resin physically dissolves styro.
However heat will do it if you put a lot of epoxy in to fill a void it will melt foam due to heat as it cure.

Thanks for all the replies. Fortuanatley I have no routers, blow tourches or anything of that nature to cause any carnage with so the bored is safe..


i will sand back the area to check for more damage.

True Mark Polyester Resin is a big destroyer of Styro, but i have also repaired a few boards where the owners have done a quick fix with car bog and it ain't pretty when you see whats underneath once you sand it...

hoop said...

Hi leftfield.
I wouldn't normally reply to this but I can see some carnage happening if you start hacking into it with a router and a blow torch.

leftfield forget about the blow torch and router.its a personal joke with hoop what im trying to say is no mater what you do as far as repairing a board is you cant sand the beyond the repair
what you need to do is get rid of that bog and then sand a destingtive divit , i like to use straite lines and then use a fiberglass tape around the edges ,then you can use some glass mat
, ive seen some horrible glass jobs because its hard to stop the edges from fraying, i glassed my board today and its ready for some bog you will notice there is no freying edges on the original bottom
i have allso used 3 carbon roveings on the tail i could have bogged it but its another option allso notice the foot pads are still on the board if you used strait cloth you would have to take them off

No offence to whoever repaired that board but it doesnt look very good. Whatever they have done id get rid of it cause it looks like they havent done a great job. Also from the picture it looks like it may have been repaired with chopped strand mat. Which is that stuff with short random fibres that go everywhere and shouldnt be used to repair a board. If you can spare the bucks take it to a board repairer if i had to guess from the pic id say not more than 5 or 6 hours for a pro to fix. If you want to fix it yourself dont be scared its really not that hard. Dont use polyester resin on your board as not only will it eat the foam but the board should be made with epoxy resin and polyester tech speaking wont stick to epoxy. Given boards have very low loads compared to other stuff you might get away with it but its not worth spending the time to do it wrong. There is heaps of websites on how to fix it prob more about surfboards which should be similar.
Keef a good trick to getting neat edges with wet glass/carbon cloth is to lay out some masking film 3M or similar (there are proper films avail but not many people buy them) put an over size piece of glass on it and wet it out. Then cut it to size. If you want you can put film on both sides to handle it like a dry piece more or less. Put it on the job with the glass/carbon down(no film in between double check to make sure!) then peel off the plastic carefully. Thats how most neat wet layed carbon jobs are done.

keef said...

fletchk said...

Keef a good trick to getting neat edges with wet glass/carbon cloth is to lay out some masking film 3M or similar (there are proper films avail but not many people buy them) put an over size piece of glass on it and wet it out. Then cut it to size. If you want you can put film on both sides to handle it like a dry piece more or less. Put it on the job with the glass/carbon down(no film in between double check to make sure!) then peel off the plastic carefully. Thats how most neat wet layed carbon jobs are done.

thanks for the tip fletchk i ashume your talking about the green 3M , you know i dont trust any maskining tape where its non porous, i use a film that has heeps of holes so it can breath, but i will try it when i'm doing a wet layup over divicell
thanks

No its not masking tape but plastic for masking up a large area comes in rolls. 3m is the expensice brand others are cheap. It loos like thin shopping bag plastic on a roll. Makes sure you take it off before the laminate goes off.