I've got a small puncture-about 4 mm-on the bottom of my board. I've filled the hole with resin, but I'm wondering: can I lay a small piece of fiberglass over the repair without[/b] sanding off the paint first? Or will it not bond properly?
Paint off. dont sand till you hit black you may not find it lol
it will be obvious when paint then undercoat /primer is gone and you hit filler coat / laminate
Select to expand quoteonshoreroy said..
I've got a small puncture-about 4 mm-on the bottom of my board. I've filled the hole with resin, but I'm wondering: can I lay a small piece of fiberglass over the repair without[/b] sanding off the paint first? Or will it not bond properly?
Sounds a little excessive for a 4mm puncture to me.
I agree but just filling a hole with resin it may not bond to the paint in the depression. So with no prep before fill, yeah now I'd glass it
I had an accident with a kiter last month. Here is my quick fix: Epoxy injection with a syringe. Board back on water the next afternoon. I didn't bother fixing up the 30cm harness hook mark, so has a story to tell now.
Yes it works but not without considering heat. can melt the core
prob better off with UV cure resin to fill, then sand n glass. Still back on water next day
Yes agree. One has to be very careful and very sure they know what they're doing (and confirm this by testing to get to know the product).
Thanks for tip with the UV resin.
Or just use very slow epoxy - too keep the temperature of the chemical reaction low enough.
Depending how much resin? If the area around is soft, better to inject something first. Trim/sand excess then resin if area doesn't see stress.
I've had a lot of success with Solarez for repairs like that, which have held up permanently.
I don't use Solarez according to the instructions though. No sanding back, etc. I clean the damaged area with IPA thoroughly, then put Solarez on directly in liquid form to fill the crack / depression in the board (with a cotton bud) and do this very gently and very neatly . Next - I take the board outside on a cloudy day and gently 'work' the Solarez to exactly match the shape of the surrounding board surface with my fingers as it sets. Solarez goes malleable and putty-like in daylight after about 20 secs or so - on a cloudy day. Better still, 'working' it this way gently with fingers actually leaves a matt finish when it finally sets, which is virtually invisible.
I know this is a completely unorthodox approach, but I've found this 'hybrid' method with Solarez really works for me and, importantly, avoids the need to sand back a massive area and do an ugly respray.
I've repaired multiple cracks like this up to ~5mm diameter or thinish ones ~30mm long, with absolutely no problems 1000s kms later. Some of these repairs are so invisible I haven't even bothered to touch them up, but if needed just a tiny dab of matched paint and a small brush does the job.
My only concern with that method is it's not a plug, and if repair is bottom of board where it flexes, then water could creep underneath the repair and get in board. But, if you're repair is clear (it's clear right ?), and you can see what's going on over time, then all good. I'm a lazy basdard now. Whatever's functional. So I'll give your method a go next time.
