This is a simple question but I haven't decided what words work best to explain what I'm looking for.
I've been using foils whose mastbase has 8mm SLOTS... so I cash leave the Tnuts in my board and just loosen them enough to slide the mast base on tighten and go.
Have just purchased a foil from a brand who's carbon mastbase ONLY has 8mm HOLES and I'm sure they would frown upon me cutting slots into the base. (ie VOID of warranty etc)
So I really DON'T want to use any of the "quick mount" systems out there... Just want a simple alu plate that I can bolt this carbon mast to... The plate being about a cm "longer" than the carbon mast base.. And the plate would have 8MM SLOTS so I can continue to mount my foil with EASE. I REALIZE this will effectively lengthen my mast a bit and add weight but it's worth it for the convenience.
Otherwise I'll be on the beach trying NOT to lose my bolts as I'm trying to line up the Tnuts with sand blowing in my eyes every day...really a step BACKWARDS in gear efficiency even though the new foil is a step forward in quality.
I realize I could try going to a local machine shop but the cost to mill out just ONE custom base like this will be crazy high.. There's GOTTA Be someone who's had the same need and some company who already builds this... Right??
1 - Expensive: the powerplate , you could remove the tuttle insert , cut grooves from the holes, shorten it if its too long , etc. 2 - cheap and dirty: a Stainless steel plate could be thinner for the same strength, manufacture it yourself
A plate of alu or stainless steel, the cheapest grinder you can find (25 USD for a new one), one or two discs and 120 grit sandpaper (goggles and ear protection too) are the only things you need to manufacture your own plate. Since the sides don't need to be perfect, even if you are not great at cutting the plate you should do a good enough job.
Just leave the bolts and Tnuts on the mast. Drop the front Tnuts in first through the slots kn board track, then slide mast forward and put back Tnuts in. Tighten then all up and go foiling.
Use locking t nuts and just remove the machine screws. Trace the outline of your foil pedistal on the bottom of the board with a sharpie and reassembly is also trivial. Faster and easier than messing with slots plus you can always mount the foil in exactly the same spot for perfect tuning repeatability.
