When I was growing up there was a lot of BS going around about what makes a real surfer.
I remember some kids saying if you weren't at the beach at the crack of dawn you were just a plastic.
I also remember the amount of crap that was given over the try hards. The ones who would be in the water from sun up to sun down given it all trying to get that bit better cause surfing didn't come second nature.

This was just a teenage pecking order that seemed to sought itself out as time went on. Often the loud mouth would be one of the first ones to stop surfing and get fat and unfit. But it was allways the surfers giving it to each other.

What has got me stuffed is the loud mouth dribble and abuse that is now coming from esky lidders! How in the world can some pimple faced twat who has 2 legs but chooses to lay flat and surf have the cheek to abuse any kid attempting and giving it his best to stand on his her own 2 feet. For some crazy reason the lidders have climbed the ranks to think they have the given right to abuse board riders. I still and never will believe that body boarding is close to stand up.
Body boards have there place like, late take off's, close outs and green room time.
Most of these kids will not even attempt getting on the knees and showing any development skills at all.

I have had my cry now and plan to take some action in the water.

I like boogers, the main reason being that that by there early 20's they have given up. We have a few guys around 50 surfing lids around here, they call them selves ofol(old farts on lids) more than not they have a better time than us in the shifty beach breaks down here

agree with ya Pete, I was one of the first to ride one at The Point in the old days, copped a bit of crap but said nothing and waited my turn. I think due to the fact that myself and a couple of other guys showed respect and it was a novelty we did OK. I progressed to the kneelo in my late teens and despite the crippo label kneelos had a bit of history and a rep as good tube riders so we went alright, still had the stigma of not standing up but due to the boards looking pretty much like surfboards we fit in a bit more than the lids. It's funny how the spots you and I frequent rarely see lidders so it's not much of an issue to me

^^^not that exciting really. Much prefered to see AI or CJ hobgood surfing it. Can't really understand why some one would prefer to ride a lid.

soleman said...

^^^not that exciting really. Much prefered to see AI or CJ hobgood surfing it. Can't really understand why some one would prefer to ride a lid.

completely agree ,i would normally rather watch paint dry although it still takes kahunas to take off on waves of that sort of consequence regardless ,the major issue i have when surfing with lids is that postioning in the lineup, or when they paddle for a wave, is nowhere near as critical for them,so they takeoff anywhere and everywhere,which unlesss you are familiar with results in complete bedlam. With a decent set of fins on they can out catch anyone on a board if they want . Where i live the lids outnumber surfers so it is the norm for young fellas to ride lids


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WATER MAN said...

So Does anyone know the true characteristics of a true surfer?

It's too subjective, it could be:
the pro surfer selling out to corporate surfing
the dole bludger that gets 8 hours of water time a day
the family guy with the full time job that has been surfing consistent for 25 years
the mysto charger
the guy that gets up at 5 am every day and posts the surf report on the internets

Maybe easier to look at the characteristics of the false surfer

For me its the guy/gal that enjoys a good session.

Checked a sopt near me last night and stand upers were 2 to 18 lidders. Was watching the lidder run right over each other

WATER MAN said...

So Does anyone know the true characteristics of a true surfer?

The guy/girl that has respect for the ocean, the creatures in it, respects other surfers in the line up and their right to share the rush of surfing, but most importantly ask any surfer why they surf and the story will be different.

I'd rather see a wave go unridden than see a lid riding it with their stupid mouth open in awe of the fact their sliding on their stomach. I'd rather see it go unridden than hear them talking to each other about 'that SECTION". I don't like it.