Legion said...I'm not intentionally picking on you gensec, but as a 50 year old, are you willing to do this:
riverider said...
When I first started surfing as a grom you had to surf the crap waves down the beach, as you progressed you got to move up the beach to some better peaks and eventually you got to surf the 2 best peaks on the beach, but you would only ever take the scraps that the hot guys left, they respected you for this and would call you onto a good one every so often.
because that's how it should be. But it's a bit hard to say to a 50 year old "just spend a few years floundering in the shorebreak down the beach there and maybe if you turn up every single day and pay respects you'll get a set wave".
The problem is more surfers than waves. If the inequality is reversed, no problem. But e.g. at my local, if every set a blow-in or noob thinks they can pinch one wave from the locals, then it leads to more competition between the guys who are there all their life. And competition leads to aggression.
There are always guys who turn up with good equipment and they can paddle and stuff and they come out and sit with the pack so you think, OK, give 'em a chance. And then they blow a set wave or just angle along. That's not how it used to work. So things are pretty ruthless nowadays, at least in the circles I roam in.
Having said that, you'd all be proud of me a few weeks back. Touring around at a strange spot and due to a few factors I did something highly unusual - didn't compete for a single set wave. Of course, it didn't hurt that the best waves were the little inside runners. Only a couple of us were called that. But very unusual for me.
Feel free to pick!! no problem..
I've sat wide enough, long enough , and fought with the groms and mal sliders on sht waves around the metro area. If its big enough, I'll still hang wide and maybe scamper for the inside runners. My window of opportunity is closing unfortunately, as I've been busy making a living and supporting my kids, now grandkids.. It's 'me time' I'm afraid , and here I come, ready or not. My brother says I'm too backwards, and last visit to surf with him at broken head east coast, he said harden the fkuk up and join the line up. 'Sure you gonna stuff a few up, but so will they'. I have huge respect for guys who know what they're doing. Even more respect when after they,ve had 2 or 3 rides call me up, and say go go go. And I do, and 3 out of 4 I'll make it..
I know the rules, and respect ,,,, but what 'goes around' I reckon..
By the way, I'm not sure how gensec got in there on my name,,, but to those who know me,,, (or don't wish to) 'quirky' is fine..
Off to Bali Lombok, and maybe Medewi in a few weeks again to find some softer lefts,, so I'll be outta your way for a while
