newguy said...
How much skill would it take to ride a wave like that? Or would it just be guts and a lack of common sense? What happens if he went under?
Man wish I could give that a shot. Would be the ride of your life!
Serious amounts of skill! This guy took on the same Cloudbreak that Ke11y did earlier this year. He took (as far as I can remember) three vastly different surf crafts out into the surf, riding them all. Considering lots of the guys were crapping themselves going in with a normal gun, he did bloody well (then there's Kelly, but he's just a freak). He got smashed multiple times, including on a SUP. Held down for ages.... and he enjoyed it. There's a video interview about him on here somewhere - can't be bothered finding it. He makes a living off tracking monster swells and riding them. It's a combination of guts, skill, training and experience. He'd get ragdolled like he's never been before if he went under on that.
I like your optimism.
But no, you really don't. You'd sh1t yourself just seeing the things rolling through and then lack of experience would probably tell that you'd most likely get absolutely pummeled, if not killed if actually went for it. He barely made it, and he's a pro!
