Australian surfing legend Michael Peterson has died of a heart attack.
Peterson, 59, died this morning after a period of ill health, the Surfing Life website reports.
The reclusive surfer won the Bells Beach Easter surfing classic three times and famously beat future world champion Mark Richards in 1977 in front of 20,000 people.
The world's best surfer Kelly Slater once told him to his face: "You are better than me, MP".
Peterson's life story was told in Sean Doherty's biography MP, The Life of Michael Peterson and detailed his battle with schizophrenia, which went undiagnosed for years.
After retiring from surfing in 1977, he withdrew from public life and was in and out of jails and psychiatric hospitals.
He was rarely seen until 1983, when he was arrested following a 15-car police chase from Coolangatta to Brisbane.
He eventually moved in with his mother in South Tweed Heads and occasionally went to surfing functions.
The long-haired surfer also suffered from diabetes and had been ill for some time yet the surfing world was shocked by his death.
"Given all that the Peterson family had endured and survived, you had the feeling that he was going to be here forever," Mr Doherty said.
I just remembered, I have a Photo Canvas Print, of MP in the barrel at Kirra, signed in gold pen by MP. I think I paid Dick Hoole $110 for it. I used to idolise Dick Hoole's motion picture work, and I bought most of his stuff on VHS. Pre DVD days.
Dick said MP's signature was easy to get, but it always costed $50 each.
I think my print might have just gone up in value... I would have thought $250-$350...
Took the Lime Splice for a quick junkie surf then headed to Kirra for the MP paddle out. Some moving speech's were made,Rabbit,Kelly,Mick and a host of talented surfs from today and past. Massive attendance sorry for the poor photos,but as you guys say pictures or it didn't happen.
mac i loved the photo of the wall of fame, thats a keeper. every time i see pictures of him its a flashback to my youth gazing into surf mags. thanks mac really enjoyed. cheers
lived hard, lived fast and died young
