NSW
3487 posts
I've see Matt surf quite often on the northern beaches over the last few years. Of late he's be ridding a log with a nice brown diamond shaped inlay in the centre.
His logging style is pleasing to the eye, it seems that he makes no concessions to performance if style must be compromised. I don't mean that in a derogatory way, I like that, I don't want to see fast walls and snappy cutbacks if they don't look good.
His rights always start off the same, a relaxed paddle, a push up of the torso while the board gains momentum, a cursory glance left and right to survey the form of the wave, a snap to his feet just back from centre, a long long right foot all the way to the tail with a deep knee bend for a snappy forehand turn and a controlled stroll up to the snotty end.
Combine that with with some graceful arm movements and stylish arching and, as I said, it's pleasing to the eye.
Can't say I share his nostalgia for the rockabilly days, I was around back then and my memories of Bodgies & Widgies are none too good.
NSW
3487 posts
I'm trying the cast my mind back to my boyhood days to recall the images of the past, and each time I do, I'm reminded of how much everything comes back again and many of the things I hated then are things I hate now.
Uncomfortable stove pipe pants that rode too low and made flat arsed white boys look look like they had concaved bums and curvature of the spine. Just like now
Winkle picker shoes that pinched your toes and made walking a real chore. Just like now.
White people stealing the music of black people and calling it their own. Just like now.
There may be others.
