After more than a year out of the water I managed to get a few waves on the bellyboard. should be back on the longboard soon. it felt good to come home caked in salt with a dripping nose.

Good work. I know the feeling after spending 10mths out with a crushed vertebrae and 5 months following an ankle recon.

Easy does it... unfortunately, it's not like riding a bike - and you don't want to re-injur yourself.

all the best.

I took the board out in a peaky beach break near home . i got a few but had to pull back on a few as well because it jacks up pretty steep. Only 2 guys out on the whole beach at lunchtime. it was a great feeling dropping into it and flying along the wall. I was sliding on my guts but it felt good just the same.
This was the spot but thinking about it I should have gone somewhere a bit less sucky.

Good stuff sucky is good smh

Mate I was thinking of you just last week that we have not heard from you for a while.

That's great news your well on the way champion,all the best and take it easy please.

smh said...

Thanks for the encouragement guys its been a pretty sh&tty time but light at the end of the tunnel now.

good work mate - sounds good all the best from me