Top 5 Surf Biographies

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jazbelle
jazbelle
VIC
71 posts
VIC, 71 posts
6 Jul 2011 11:02pm
Like a good read over our Melbourne winters.Not sure if there are any books on the characters in SUP as yet.Just getting through a book called Stealing The Wave based on the friction between surfers Ken Bradshaw and Mark Foo back in the 80s
Really well written.
So far have in order mine are
1. Bustin Down The Door.Rabbit Bartholemu
2.Stealing the Wave.Andy Martin
3.MP.
4.Kelly Slater
Any suggestions for my next read
Find it makes better reading if the subjects are a little flawed/messed up.
lotus blossom
lotus blossom
SA
106 posts
SA, 106 posts
7 Jul 2011 12:27am
Try "In Search of Captain Zero" great yarn flawed characters.
Downwinder
Downwinder
QLD
2095 posts
QLD, 2095 posts
7 Jul 2011 7:37am
Hi Jazbelle

Check out these books mate great read.
1. The Wave - Susan Casey
2. Laird Hamilton - Force of Nature
3. Surfer's Code Shaun Tomson - Patrick Moser

if you're into reading I'm not! but this book is a must read (a heavy True Story)
Help Me Please Mr Wizard!

1. BETAVIA - Peter Fitzsimons
Leroy13
Leroy13
VIC
1174 posts
VIC, 1174 posts
7 Jul 2011 8:58am
Hi Con, I read a surf Biography years ago by a guy called Phil Edwards. He was the first guy to ride Pipeline and make it. He was mates with Mickey Munoz,Hobie Whatever, Gordon Clark and all that crew. It was a really good but simple insight into the history of Surfing, particularly in California. I think it was called "Going Surfing". Bu the way, Let's try and catch up for a paddle soon. I had a ball the other day. Cheers Leo
aus301
aus301
QLD
2039 posts
QLD, 2039 posts
7 Jul 2011 12:08pm
the wave with-in - Tom Carroll... The first half of the book where he talks about growing up and a major accident he had is good, when it gets into his professional surfing career it gets a bit boring. Page after page going through heat and contest results.


Phil, I'm the same, don't read a lot. But check out Under Cover Prop - about rugby union player Dan Crowley and his time as an under cover cop working in and around the Bird Watchers Bar in Surfers.
graffitisurf
graffitisurf
NSW
123 posts
NSW, 123 posts
7 Jul 2011 12:14pm
1) Surf is Wherever You Find It........Gerry Lopez
2) Mr Sunset The Jeff Hackman Story......Phil Jarratt
3) Stoked......Drew Kampion
4) Thrust The Simon Anderson Story.....Simon Anderson & Tim Baker
5) Bells the beach, the surfers, the contest....Michael Gordon
6) The Wave.......Susan Casey
7) Tunnel Vision......Sullivan McLeod
8) The Art of the Surfboard...Greg Noll
9) Force of Nature.....Laird Hamilton
10) Switchfoot I & II

Not all Biographies but great reads. Must agree with Downwinder "Batavia" is my best read for some time. In fact anything by Peter Fitzsimons is good.
Sparx
Sparx
VIC
734 posts
VIC, 734 posts
7 Jul 2011 12:45pm
All For a Few Perfect Waves
"The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer MIKI DORA"
Cheers
Sparx
dtm
dtm
NSW
1610 posts
dtm dtm
NSW, 1610 posts
7 Jul 2011 1:03pm
MR SUNSET ..................
Th0m0
Th0m0
QLD
529 posts
QLD, 529 posts
7 Jul 2011 3:31pm
I enjoyed "Occy" by Tim Baker & Occy also just finished "Breath" by Tim Winton which is fiction but all about surfing and messed up characters.
CMC
CMC
QLD
3954 posts
CMC CMC
QLD, 3954 posts
7 Jul 2011 3:39pm
I have read most of the above. The Motley Crue story was better

I am looking forward to "Thrust" though. Simon A is a legend and ironically he is a greater legend in every other country more than his own.



laceys lane
laceys lane
QLD
19804 posts
QLD, 19804 posts
7 Jul 2011 7:51pm
if you like a bit of a wild ride try 'scar tissue'. by the frontman of the red hot chili peppers- nothing to do with surfing
Adapt
Adapt
QLD
723 posts
QLD, 723 posts
7 Jul 2011 8:39pm
A good book on Australian surf culture is "Australian Beach Cultures: A history of sand, sun and surf" or a good vid is "Bombora" narrated by Jack Thompson. Haven't had much time to read much else lately.
rager
rager
QLD
437 posts
QLD, 437 posts
7 Jul 2011 8:50pm
CMC said...

I have read most of the above. The Motley Crue story was better

I am looking forward to "Thrust" though. Simon A is a legend and ironically he is a greater legend in every other country more than his own.





Those guys are some very sick puppies
JasonProsser
JasonProsser
NSW
268 posts
NSW, 268 posts
7 Jul 2011 10:26pm
Force of Nature if you like Laird, and Eddie Would Go - the Eddie Aikau story. Also worth a look, The Rise and Fall and Rise of Occy.
For more of a paddle culture feel, must reads are books and publications by Steve West - Kanu Culture. They give a good insight into paddle and canoe culture biased around outrigger paddling.
tightlines
tightlines
WA
3509 posts
WA, 3509 posts
8 Jul 2011 3:15am
Really enjoyed "Bustin Down the Door" (Rabbit) and am just about to read "Thrust" (Simon Anderson).

Also recently read



and it's not a bad yarn.
dtm
dtm
NSW
1610 posts
dtm dtm
NSW, 1610 posts
8 Jul 2011 10:22am
CMC said...

I have read most of the above. The Motley Crue story was better

I am looking forward to "Thrust" though. Simon A is a legend and ironically he is a greater legend in every other country more than his own.






agrred loved The Motley Crue story epic!
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