Thanks to Mr Pirie for these unreal racks, now I can fit all my boards and still get some shelves
Even my wife thinks it looks good

Now that's a toy cupboard!

great set up are most of the sups DCs

Now thats a rack

laceys lane said...

i was pretty excited when i looked at the title

This guy looks excited....

back to boring racks .... these from Piros too

latman said...

back to boring racks .... these from Piros too

Hows the roof on this rack,nice work.I first saw the racks at the opening of greenline a few years ago top quality.

some other racks with our SUPs on.

6061 is one of the most common used mid to high strength aluminium alloys, with its major alloying elements being magnesium and silicon. Not sure id call it high tensile.... T6 is referring to the solution heat treating porcess, in this case being: solution heat-treated and then artificially aged. TIG/heliarc welding wont give the aluminum more strength, nore will it out perform GMAW(Mig) or Oxy/Acetelene welding IF they are all using the correct procedure for their particular process.

The material type, size and wall thickness being used along with design will give end strength. In this case I cant see there being any problems. What I have seen in commercial enviroments, where boards are being put on and off the racks all day is a faliure at the butt weld...both in racks I have built and racks built by others ;)

IMO what is happening is the small amount of up and down movement is causing work hardening particluarly at the HAZ or heat affected zone around the weld. Visually insoecting the break showed what looked to be good welds and weld penetration.

For basic racks that are getting wall mounted im now using angle as the vertical rather than hollow section. This gives more weld area and also allows less leverage on the fastener used to the wall.

Just another way to skin a cat

ffs Lacey its only a board rack

yep, i understand its just an excuse to waffle on a bit

laceys lane said...


hi, i would have thought a angle vertical section would need more wall fixing due cross member weight/load distortion. also the horizontal sections would have more movement/flex in the horizontal plan.
i know c sections and angles distort with downward loading pressure in lintel applications.i hate using them

thinking a vertical channel section where the cross members sit inside the vertical channel would allow for the benifits of a more welding and have more stability as a structual member its self.

we are talking high end strenght, probably commercial applications

cheers

considering the application, and the material size/thickness the wall fixing will be what ever the owner/installer wants to do... as far as crossmember weight/load distortion, your not building a truck chassis...the racks are independant of each other and the boards sitting on them. There is no side loading, unless you drive a car etc into them, then good luck with that. I can see what your saying about the twisting/distortion of the angle as its loaded heavily, but the box section that the board rests on, being welded to the angle, will increase its ridigity some what....its kinda of a moot point here.

All beam sections will distort under load, thats whay they require bracing at some point in some way shape or form. have a look at UB (I) beams in factorys, and have a look at the box section chassis under Piros's Landy...all have bracing/cross members

Using a "C" channel as the vertical with its web to the wall and the flanges coming out, welding the box section "into" it is a good idea....but not sure how much of a benifit it is over angle as the 2 flanges are still independant, only joined at each rack....

Like I have said more than once, the way Piros has done them is more than enough most of the time. But I have seen faliures. IMO its just high use that is doing it.

the ultimate would be a one piece extrusion....or a one piece billet milled out of something like Ti.....or maybe a foam core with carbon wrap. get your jig saw out Lacey

latman said...

How many KGs would be supported by each horizontal arm holding a board ? 4 or 5 maybe . Im sure a 40 or 50mm square tube weld has no problems..

it not the tube that fails....

Edit: just caught the weld bit, this is where Ive seen the failure.

talking and making anything better is a good thing im my mind. Isnt that why we have read so many board and fin reviews from you

laceys lane said...

husq2100 said...

talking and making anything better is a good thing im my mind. Isnt that why we have read so many board and fin reviews from you

why does everybody think i do fin reviews? i did on recently as joke because everbody thought it might have been about those reef sharks fin thingies.

speaking of, i had to give back those jm fins, so i was left with my am2's and tried a reuben shapers fin as centre fin that i had. it does look strange compared to the current trend of small sets of fins. had it way too forward to start with- too loose and i could hardly stand on the board. slipped it back to my normal spot on my last sup walk back circuit and well- the board was super fast drivey. it turned back fast and positive on cutback rebounds instead of that swing feel and gave my a lot confidence in and around the steep sections in low tide alley/laceys this morning.

cmc has been telling everyone their supping with too smaller fins- i think he is right.

thanks, i was dying for that excuse

Lacey, seeing as you changed the topic and given you are the unofficial expert on all things fins, I read your comments on moving the fins, well I am new and find sometimes the board is "loose" (Naish Nalu 11'6) particularly in wind and small cop. Anyway I have the fin (11" standard from the factory) in the fin box where it was when I bought it. Which is pretty much to the front of the fin box

If I moved it to the back of the fin would it make the board more stable.........and why? The fin box is only 250mm which I guess is standard so i cant understand why this would be.

Any help appreciated.

Greg

ShireSUP said...

laceys lane said...

husq2100 said...

talking and making anything better is a good thing im my mind. Isnt that why we have read so many board and fin reviews from you

why does everybody think i do fin reviews? i did on recently as joke because everbody thought it might have been about those reef sharks fin thingies.

speaking of, i had to give back those jm fins, so i was left with my am2's and tried a reuben shapers fin as centre fin that i had. it does look strange compared to the current trend of small sets of fins. had it way too forward to start with- too loose and i could hardly stand on the board. slipped it back to my normal spot on my last sup walk back circuit and well- the board was super fast drivey. it turned back fast and positive on cutback rebounds instead of that swing feel and gave my a lot confidence in and around the steep sections in low tide alley/laceys this morning.

cmc has been telling everyone their supping with too smaller fins- i think he is right.

thanks, i was dying for that excuse

Lacey, seeing as you changed the topic and given you are the unofficial expert on all things fins, I read your comments on moving the fins, well I am new and find sometimes the board is "loose" (Naish Nalu 11'6) particularly in wind and small cop. Anyway I have the fin (11" standard from the factory) in the fin box where it was when I bought it. Which is pretty much to the front of the fin box

If I moved it to the back of the fin would it make the board more stable.........and why? The fin box is only 250mm which I guess is standard so i cant understand why this would be.

Any help appreciated.

Greg

hi, a few of us reckon a good starting positioning point for centre fins is 8" for the back of the fin to the back of the tail. i was chucking in the fins on my ripper 8'6, scotty said try the fin up a bit more seeing as it is big- just to see how it would go.

now as big as the fin is, it was really difficult to stand in the two direction chop we had.

when i eventually got the fin back to my normal 8" position it was a lot easier to deal with stability wise.why, i'm not super sure.

what i have found is you can go back a bit further with the centre fin, but to far back and the board drags its arse paddling and well its just plain weird to surf unless it big and pumping

so i would say something like this, if you have to push the fin right back to get stability, i would say you need a different or bigger fin. you can go two ways- more of a base ier fin or a bigger narrowish base fin with some rake.
i was impressed with the holding/drive feel of the rueben with out giving up any looseness then i was used too. again i'm not overtly fond of really loose surfbboards- i reckon they just end up screwing up your surfing

cheers