A big surf tale..
After 5 weeks of almost continuous back to back swells on the east coast, this one supposed to be the one. We have been amping on a 16-18 sec period swell now for nearly a week and a plan was made to paddle out in the dark to one of Sydney's northern beaches outer reefs that picks up every inch of swell with Hawaiian like ferocity.
It was one of those mornings where you just know it's gonna be huge, with a full moon reflecting on the massive walls of whitewater that confronted us when we rocked up to the normally sedate 'bay' where we would begin our paddle out.....Plan B. A quick decision was made to instead hit up my local point break which at least, is not a kay out to sea, and gets a little less swell.
We rock up and it looks about 3-4 foot, WTF!! Glen my goatie mate was straight out. I started paddling out in the protected corned when suddenly the horizon went black. Just before I dived under the first one I look up to see Glenn on a triple overhead monster with a wall that when on for eternity. After a thorough flogging I finally managed to scratch out the back thanks to the lulls provided courtesy of a 16 second period swell emanating from Antarctica.
The local surf report mob are calling it the biggest ridable point swell in 15 years – some triple overhead beasts rearing up a 100 meters out form the normal take off spot and running up to 400 meters down the beach. At one point the horizon went a shade of black I have never seen before – we sprinted like our lives depended on it to find the first (and smallest) one feathering menacingly. Glenn turned with a look of terror on his face and took off!! Thanks mate - now I had the 3 bigger ones to paddle over! Like some mysterious' hand of huey' at work, the beasts started pitching either side of me leaving a small feathering path to paddle over. I finally scratched over the last one and turned around to see the crew of 8 shorties completely decimated bar one guy. We both had a laugh and tried to settle the heart rate for the next set.
Needless to say some of the drops were insane and thank god I had my new DTM 9'1” gun (plug plug) which is just amazingly solid in the big stuff. The short board riders were doing it tough, completely under gunned and leaving the sets to me and Glenn – SUPs and Goat boats rock!! The pics below don't really do it justice.
The DTM gun scratching in at the last minute
Horrey sets
A 'smaller' inside one hitting the ledge - I got smashed!!
Seabreeze forecasts couldn't be more wrong for Sydney today as far as swell is concerned-it's PUMPING?
I was in Warriewood for the last 2 days on a Dusk till Dawn work mission. The bloke I was working with had a bunch of phonecalls to hire his Ski for photoshoots at somewhere down far South that they reckon was going to get mag cover shots for sure. The ocean looked alive as I drove past Longy yest arvo for the airport.
I didnt even know that point Goaty was surfing held that kind of swell.
YEEEHAR ...go Goatie
classic tale of the horizon turning black remember that nightmare well but hav'nt seen it for a long time , hopefully this swell will hit Qld soon.
Love that first shot great take off and how are the boys try to scrammble over... faaark 
16 sec swell period on the back of a big swell adds up to alot of fun
Unreal story Goaty - and that first photo = awesome (you should get onto Don and see about getting them in high res).
I went out "kiddies corner" up at Summer Bay - a solid 1.5 foot! 
Hey Goaty, I was out at a certain northern beaches break behind a pool with another guy at just after 6am. He told me he had just checked Dee Why and some mad bastard was paddling out on a SUP - I thought it could only be one person...
I lived there for 21 years and never remember seeing that big and actually handling it. Looks like we could have some new photos so that we can bring back "the mother of a day" t shirts.
those photos didnt even come close to showing the real size of those sets i drove by and from way up the road i could see a set charging in that was lot bigger than 10 foot!!'
Well done mate for having a solid dig bigger balls than me champ, and cheers for rating the new gun so highly and throwing it through its paces in the big big stuff someones gotta do it ,kinda glad it was you this morning!
well done.
i'm really into big surf like that.
i can watch it for hours.
those faces looked a bit wonky just to add to the drama.
i take my hat off to guys that sup the big stuff. last big swell midday at the alley there were heaps of big mongrel wide sets coming through that just clean up everybody.
no much fun on sup
cheers
good shots Goaty, sth newy was puuuumping too. So stoked i took today off. 6 hours in the water with some good thrashings.. (mostly paddling out)
Where are you surfing tomorrow mate ?
this is just up the beach from where goatie was surfing this morning!
www.realsurf.com/2011/05/18/dee-why-big-dont-let-the-lulls-between-sets-fool-you/
We didnt get it that big at Maroubra,But managed some 5/6footer early on the SUP.
XXL Hazza
Cheers guys. I saw the fellow who took the first shot, out this morning (it's dropped back to 2-3 foot BTW) and he is going to send me the original
Here's a couple more from later in the day.
These are of one of our bombies that is interesting on a SUP:
Can't beleive how fast if fell off - couple of work mates went to a place that needs a long period and reasonable sized swell to work this morning - they didn't even get in the water.
going off goatie
gezzzzz im stoked it wasnt that big up here
that paddle out would be have been nasty......
rock on
Awesome Goaty, a couple of photos for the lounge room wall. 
or the garage if the wife doesnt allow...
Lol Balls to the Wall stufff mate.
