... or green.. .... Looks good.

DJ

bottom glassed yesterday





top side today





the extra stands are used to hold the rocker true to the boards program file. a laser is used in this process

went with tinted blue, talk about quality. not to many tinted standups around and less dw boards. you can't hide bogging and faults with a tint job

Simondo said...

Colour: Lacey's Blue.

Infact, you should give her a name.... "Lace Blue" ?! Plus a naming ceremony.... Easter Eggs are dirt cheap at the moment.... smash a chocolate egg on her.... (a Champagne bottle would only bring tears!).

PS - sweet board ! I want one.

this is one board i'm really sweating on. the yellow 14 is really good at 30".

i wanted to keep the stability, so only trimmed it to 29". the nose measurements were kept the same as we feel it was to sweet to change.

however just going from 30 to 29" the outline just looks a treat. when dale was going through the rails shaping it up he was rapt with the blend from nose to mid rails.

hopefully have it in the water wednesday, i've just got to figure away of fighting dale and cmc off the board before i have a go
cheers

Adapt said...

Can't wait to see the board in action. It looks a treat Lacey. Did you put the carbon in on the deck pad? I just can't see the black that normally goes with it.

went on with the first filler coat

dtm said...

yeah i was wonder about the carbon myself couldnt see it under the glass in the shots

hi, i would rather put strip carbon on the bottom side. i reckon it would be better there in tension, but it has been a bit hard to get a good finish without using more resin and sanding away the carbon it's self. so under the grip it goes and probably wont touch it much. the strip its self is quite a hefty size
cheers

just came back from helping with the fin box. tape off, un sanded - weight 10.4 kg

expect to sand off 600 grams, but 300 back on with final coat and lose some weight again with finish sanding. wont protec the board if possible.

who knows, if i'm lucky griped up and finned it might at 11kgs.

now that would be fanastic for a 14' non carbon board
btw glassing is 4, 6 top and bottom with a 4 oz standing pad
cheers

Adapt said...

Lacey how do you reckon it will compare to the 15'3 and your 14' with the foot wells? Both those boards are rockets!

gee, i don't know. i trained with the 30" and it was right up there pace wise and that was pretty pleasing for dale. its more glassed up( would be more durable) then my newie so it's heavier and an inch wider. so mine being narrower and a fair amount lighter i think it could/maybe have javlin speed in terms of flat out speed. that would be very cool considering its still 29' wide and ocean friendly. add that to it performance on runners etc, well the yellow 14 x 30" was made for a beginner paddler, so he wanted it durable. i'm at the other end where i want it as light as possible and i'll take the punt. i suppose most would like somewhere inbetween regarding weight/ durablity.

i couldn't afford carbon, however a custom carbon 14 'x 30' er is nearly made and that thing is crazy lite
cheers

sure i'm selling it,but i kid you not, that 15'3 is a special.
cheers

Bnaccas said...

Looks pretty sweet!

Wouldn't you want the carbon on the bottom to stop the boogie board/banana effect? Or ideally both sides?
I would have thought you would have more flex issues in that direction considering you are standing in
the middle of the board.

yes you are right i believe, but the carbon strips on the bottom has issues. it had to be filled up either side with more resin(more weight) and the carbon was being sanded out a fair bit too to get some kind of respectable surface.




i look at it as like wire- very good in tension.

the piece we put in is quite chucky and i believe the dihedrals are structurely strong due to their shape.

hopefully the carbon chucky piece on top of the centre of double barrel deck concaves will form a rigid 'beam'
cheers

Bnaccas said...

Ah cool so you did put it on the bottom as well.
MAN it looks really nice!

I know what you mean about the carbon and the thick edge.

I did carbon rails on a surf SUP I made and to get rid of that thick carbon edge I painted on a little resin on the rail and then
laid the carbon in position. I then went along both sides of the carbon tape and cut the edge off. I definitely helped, still
needed a good sand but the finish was perfect.

Let us know how the board goes once you get it dialled!

not on this one. another board- a 16' er