When the swell size increases enough the number of surfable spots drops quickly. And then you get the company of pirates. It's nice when you can put the advantages of the standup package to good use in an unpopulated lineup.
The last bit was a record of the dangers of a summer and fall spent on 30-31" comfort boards. The new generation of wider boards that still surf well makes it easy to forget to put in time on the performance widths. This board is 28 wide and when I got surprised by a set away from the crowd I aggressively tried to rotate and just pulled myself offf the board. Getting the kinks out.
?Perfect conditions
