I dream of the day i can ride a wave like this , going to Hawaii next year so hopefully ill get my chance.

aussiefreebs said...

I don't think I'll ever have the ability or the nerve to ride that. Well I might have the ability but it seems big waves will always scare the shiatsu out of me.

edit: The scale some people use on here, that wave must be at least 4ft

Yeah at least , maybee 6 but that might be pushing it Lol.

I'm not brave. Out on the shoulder on my 10 footer. Damn nice wave

aussiefreebs said...
The scale some people use on here, that wave must be at least 4ft

You have to measure from the back of the wave. It's barely 3 ft.

I'd be happy sitting on the shoulder of the guy beside me on the beach checking the action out

I'm guessing many of us would sit on the shoulder and try to catch one of the smaller sets ... and miss them.

We'd work in further and further, then a set wave would come and cream us. You dive down deep and take a dragging on the first wave. Maybe survive a few more without too much drama.

Eventually you'd surface just a touch too soon and have that terminal feeling as you're board sucks you backwards over the falls.