Yeah it was nuts! My camera died so I didnt get many pics.
Its kinda hard to get photos of yourself on a wave when your the only one out
Belly joined me for some chest to head high waves on the main break. Once the short boarders could see that we had our shish together, they stopped dropping in on us
The wide rights were smoking with some heavy sections over the shallow fly trap.
Belly got held down on one bomb and dragged across the reef which cost him a bloody leg.
The 9'8 x 30 was a challange on my backhand to keep slotted but after a few beatings I had the wave sussed. Paddle your guts out and ride it high until the fly trap starts to peak then fang it with max speed down the wave and backdoor the section for a fun ride and a few hoots
Oh and by the way, I saw a small shark on the inside
