Hi Guys looking for some educated advice from those in the know.
I am researching race BOP 12'6" boards however it's impossible to find the thickness measurements online. Can any one assist me with the following questions?
1. where has the thickness measurement been taken from? Keep in mind that some boards (Fanatic and Lahui Kai)have a thickish nose like clubbie race mals and some have a slightly dug out standing area to lower the center of gravity and get paddle closer to water.
2. what online models show the thickness specs ie 404, Fanatic, Starboard, JM, DC
Any help would be appreciated
Kind regards
Len
You're right, thickness measurements are a dilemma, as you point out. Scoop decks etc, where should you measure thickness from....
Probably one of the reasons Litres is often given on 12'6 racers.
Thickness is pretty irrelevant actually... With the assumption that most 12'6 race boards are going to be "roughly" as fast as each, I maintain the following mathematical equation in relation to paddle speed.
80% Engine (paddler)
16% Board
3% Paddle
1% Fin
0% Thickness
(or you could also say 75-20-4-1... in that ball park anyway).
So you need to ask yourself, what score do you give the board for the conditions... and obviously what score do you give to the paddler given the conditions on the day...
A "thickness measurement" doesn't bring anything to the table, so to speak...
Thinking board design....
Also, the overall template (outline), rocker (bottom curve), and concave/convex shapes on the bottom, and wetted surface area, and clean water release/exit off the tail, are important parts of a board design.
Pretty much all 12'6 race boards have sufficient volume (and thickness) to make the board "perform".
Getting into basics, I think most 12'6 boards are around 200-250 litres. If you stepped back to under 150 litres, you would end up with too much water coming over the deck in choppy conditions, and if you stepped it up to 350 litres, you would have too much board area acting as a small "sail" in windy conditions.
It's pointing towards "thickness=irrelevant" provided your board is somewhere around 200-250 litres (or even 180-280).
Obviously there are many other things to consider, including rider weight, and paddle length, foot height in relation to water surface level... etc etc....
Blah Blah Blah Lacey.... I was trying to say, "with the assumption you're already on a decent 12'6".... then thickness doesn't actually mean much, assuming you're standing on very roughly 4+ inches and 200 litres. I left "width" out of the equation.
Of course width is another significant factor. But that is within the board's score.
In generic terms, what do you think about 80-16-3-1 / 75-20-4-1 ?
Dear 28 Days,
Not sure on how much SUP experience you have, but;
Board Thickness;
Obviously if your board is 5"3/4 (+grip) or 6" thick, you'll need to match it with a longer paddle, as opposed to the Starboard Race Canoe's & Foot Spa's (
), with "dug out / recessed" foot wells, that has you standing maybe at the effective water line.
Width;
Narrower boards are generally less stable, and sometimes faster. I said sometimes.
Hi 28days,
I have 5 different race boards in my stable, three of them being 12'6" BOP boards.
There is a lot to consider IMHO when looking for a good BOP board. I have the 12'6" x 30.5" Fanatic, the 12'6" x 27 3/4" and the Hobie Race Elite 12'6" x 28 7/8".
All three are very fast boards and VERY different from one another. I would suggest to you, thickness is all but irrelevent. Volume, width, rocker and nose shape play a much bigger hand in successful racing.
Volume is key for me being ~ 90 kg. I love the 12'6" red rocket and I know it's fast, just not with me on it. It accelerates like crazy and pierces the chop like no ones business, but with my height (6'3") and weight on it, it doesn't have the stability nor the speed as there is too much wetted surface and too much drag at the tail and nose with the board sitting lower in the water than it's designed for.
Put someone fit and lightweight on this board and they are a force to be reckoned with.
The Hobie has the sunken deck and is a little wider than the red rocket so much more stable, I haven't put it to the clock yet in a race but I feel it doesn't have the top speed I need as a heavier rider. It's way fast though and super easy to kick turn with it being wider in the hip than the Red Rocket.
I think it'll be the wide fanatic for me come race day as it floats me higher and gives me the stability in a pivot turn to apply heaps of power and accelerate quickly. It surfs well too, as does the Hobie.
I think standing lower would give you a shaft length advantage in paddle size as well as lower CG.
I'd say thickness would be measured at it's thickest point which on Hobie and Fanatic would be at the bow or just back from it in Fanatics case.
Have a look at your weight and demo a few different boards. The narrowest board is not necessarily the fastest, especially if you are a tad heavier.
DM
Agree Lacey. Lacey those number relate to my 1st reply ^.
Agree Scarbs. Thickness is all but irrelevant. The thickness where you stand is probably quite important. Annabel Anderson paddled the Starboard Ace (?) in The Great Melbourne Paddler with the really deep foot wells. Lowers the centre of gravity. She was 2nd outright, behind Jacko on his red Fanatic (14?), and a clear 1st in the Ladies.
The Fanatic 12'6 x 27/28ish (actually all Fanatic Racers) have slightly thinner mid points where you stand, and extra thickness/volume up front where you don't stand.
