Check out Laird Hamiltons book, 'force of nature' should make for an interesting read.http://www.bookdepository.co.uk/book/9781594869426/Force-of-Nature/?a_aid=Ndorfin
I got it for Christmas. It is not a bad read, calls on some commentry from a few people like Dave Kalama and Gerry Lopez. It doesn't get too deep but reinforces alot of things that you might have forgottoen. I am a Laird fan so I enjoyed it.
I have had this book for a couple of years now. It (or Laird) was instrumental in me returning from a broken back suffered in a surfing accident. It is truly inspirational stuff and directly led me to SUP surfing.