Havnt made one but spoke to a guy on the weekend who has. He said it was super easy; just get a broomstick and stick a handle on the end. The biggest issue he said was finding a material hard enough for the 'paddle' end. He'd been using rubber stoppers off a walking stick but said they were wearing out too quickly.
NB I'm not sure how long a broomstick would last if you were >60-70kg
Yep - have just made one out of a scrap of aluminium tube. The T handle came from a cheap boat paddle (on special for $10 at the local hardware store). For th "paddle" end I used a couple of rubber roller blade wheels. Simply took the bearings out and bolted them on with washers each side of thr bottom of the stick. Have only used it a couple of time but the wheels have good grip on the road. I think they'll ware pretty well as the rubber is very hard. You can also rotate the wheels later if they're starting to ware at a particular point. I might see if I can take a photo later this week.
Getting ready to make some with 1.25" fiberglass poles. I am going to use roller blade wheels and a plastic canoe paddle handle. I am using 3/4" tube as an axle and will tighten the wheels against the shaft to stop rotation. If the wheel spins I will drill holes in the wheel and use a pin on the shaft to lock them in place. I am making 4 of them and they will cost less then $30 each. The shiping on a 8'
pole is high. So the more you can order the lower the price. Will post some pictures when I start the project.
Started R&D yesterday. The router cuts a clean hole for the axle. Trying to use compression to hold the wheels still caused a few problems. The tubing needs reinforcement. Was going to sleeve it but I remembered that I had some super high density foam left from my sailboat transom that is almost crush proof. The foam did the trick and is lighter then sleeving the onside of the tube. Next problem is that the wheels would spin if you try to use them as a brake. Added nonskid with polyester and sugar behind the wheels. Better but still some spin. Going to add a 3/16" fiberglass pin behind the wheels and drill 5 to 6 holes in the wheel so it can be rotated as it wears. Will post more when I am done.
Thanks for the feedback- I can feel what an awesome workout it is, and fun at the same time !
Looking good!!! Any finished photo's yet? If so how do you like the feel of the plastic tubing?
Have not finished it yet. My daughter has me painting her room. Hopefully I will be done next week and have a chance to shoot some Napa MSU on it. The pole is fiberglass and not plastic. Has good flex to theoritically return energy to the stroke.
The 3/16" pin above the axle keeps the wheels in one place and with the 8 holes it can be rotated to increase the life span. I will be testing the stick now and when I shoot the paint I will post the finished product. She is weighing in at 2.25 pounds. A little heavy.
About 20 years ago we would make these sticks out of anything from aluminium oars to broomsticks, bamboo poles to old timber boat oars. Success was always hit and miss, aluminium kinks and in turn breaks really quickly, bamboo had the 'energy return' but was harder back then to get a decent piece. Timber has pros and cons, but back then anything that lasted more than a few uses was usually too heavy.
I bought the 6' Kahuna Classic Big Stick last week, and the enjoyment I've had in the last 6 days has already justified the cost. It's light enough to throw it around on the board without throwing yourself off balance, and sturdy enough to get my 100kgs steaming down the road.
Best money I've spent recently for sure!!!
Just an update on my fiberglasss stick. After converting pounds to grams the 5'8" stick weighs 1020.582 grams. That is less then the classic at 1100 grams. The stick has been great just need to keep it away from the front wheel. Will be making 3 more next week so the kite/skate shop owner can have one. After I shoot the urethane paint I will post the finished picture.
Finally got the time to finish the sticks. $36 total cost. Paint per stick was $4.34 and with a different color it would be less. If you make 20 off them with out paint it would be around $25 a stick.
Seismics with surf rodzs and 80mm Krptonics on the Dog Town. And Original S-10's on the sector with 76mm Sector wheels. The originals have more tilt so they turn sharper then the Seismics. Both set ups carve great. All of my sons friends love the different trucks. Would be nice to get the kids into Street SUP.
I'll be interested to know how they go with those contacts.
In the past few days that I've been experimenting with different materials on the tips and I've found that a reasonably pliable, but still hard wearing rubber type material is about the only way to get a half way decent push.
Anything less, and it will as often slip rather than bite, dependent on the surface and the angle.
ive just been using bamboo, cheap, light,strong, with pieces of old mtb tires taped on the end, looks kinda ghetto, but works fine.
the rollerblade wheels look better though, going to try that. thanks.
Whats wrong with your leg!!! seems to have worked for the last 40 years.
More power more control and you dont look disabled. Skateboards do not need a stick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Interesting view Werty....
Have you tried streetsup ?
Do you think maybe it just adds another dimension ?
How about the fitness benefits- it is a real workout ?
