I have a tohatsu 9.8 in the well of my triton24 and am interested in solutions for lifting the motor in and out of the water. My back is not what it was I'm not interested in hanging it off the transom as the well works fine for me. I was thinking of mainsheet track and slides but would appreciate any ideas.
Why lift?
The last 2 photos are my yacht, my f/g and plywood surgery, and quite a successful solution. Same motor as yours - Tohatsu 9.8 2stroke at 28kg, long shaft. Cheaper than replacing the diesel motor.
Good prior post here including an Elan 210 with well system. See video of it about 2/3 way down the post. But a very big well.........uses a tilt frame;
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Motoroutboard-making-a-well-solution?page=1
These links discuss Tophat wells, the 2nd has a photo of a sliding frame.
www.tophatyachts.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1002&start=10
www.tophatyachts.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1866&p=11573&hilit=outboard+well+outboard+well+lift+system+outboard+well+sliding+system#p11573
See here another post with numerous for and against comments.
www.boatdesign.net/threads/tilt-or-slide-for-outboard-in-a-well.58083/
The Columbia 22 has a well which as designed was enclosed by a box plug. This was removed and the outboard inserted down into the well, clamped to the front lip of the well. Some might have been modified with slide system and hinged doors - google for details. Easiest wells to fit with a slide system are those aft of the rudder so the outboard lift is not limited by the tiller.
Suggest a sliding lift frame system would be best for the T24. Linear bearings specific for marine environment would be reasonably easy to set up - mount the outboard bracket plate to them then set up the pully lift system.
gsfslides.com/applications/marine-non-corrosive/
www.statewidebearings.com.au/linear-bearings/aluminium-extrusion-profile-building-system/
Thanks everyone, I thought I might get more responses. But appreciate possible solutions
George
Hi George,
I have an outboard well on my boat but don't use it because the motor takes up a lot of the cockpit space. However, I'm coming around to the idea because reaching over the back to operate the motor is starting to lose its appeal.
Sounds like I've been contemplating the same issue as you - how to vertically lift the outboard because the well doesn't allow me to tilt the motor. Here's what I've come up with:
1. Remodel the boat to allow the motor to be tilted out of the water (way too much effort for me, but good work FabulousPhil)
2. Lift the out board out of the well and store it in the stern locker (been on a boat that did this. Big effort and not good if you need the motor in a hurry)
3. Come up with an ingenious vertical lift outboard mount. Some commercial ones are available, but are expensive and don't have sufficient travel to allow the motor to fully clear the water (see thmarinesupplies.com/products/cmc-power-lift-hydraulic)
4. Upgrade to an electric motor that is lighter, doesn't take up as much cockpit space and doesn't need so much vertical movement to clear the water. Again, pretty pricey.
I toyed with the idea of sail track, but not sure that the tolerances of the slides are tight enough to stop the motor from wobbling around and the locking pin might not have sufficient shear strength.
Let us know what you come up with.
Select to expand quotewinkali said..
Thanks everyone, I thought I might get more responses. But appreciate possible solutions
George
Apologies to underwhelm with response George. Is it possible for you to post photos of your T24 stern so that maybe a focused response can be devised. Or a link to a Triton same build as yours - eg
www.yachtandboat.com/listing/triton-24-8/
Very impressive solution there Phil, well done. A solution I'll no doubt be compelled to do if the YSE8 in my Compass 28 karks it.
Select to expand quoteBlueMoon said..
Very impressive solution there Phil, well done. A solution I'll no doubt be compelled to do if the YSE8 in my Compass 28 karks it.
BM, the idea isn't mine. I took at least 2 years to think about it, reading about in James Baldwin's / Atom pages in the link in my Compass group page. You have read my installation in the Compass Yacht Group, have you not?
groups.google.com/g/compass-yacht-group/c/4U5qWlntOoo .
It does fit the Compass lazarette, but it is a little awkward. Ideally I might move my traveller to the companionway area. I also required a wind vane sitting directly behind the motor, and a stern ladder, both of which are now installed and do not interfere with the motor tilting. In hindsight, making the OB well 2 inches wider, will give the motor the ability to rotate better, to help in making sharp turns when docking. When warm spring weather comes, it will be finished and painted.
The choice is sometimes clear: $3 - 4000 for a Yanmar rebuild with no warranties; $10 000 for a new diesel; or $1 300 for a near-new outboard motor and a bit of work with your angle grinder, plywood and epoxy. Sometimes it just comes down to budgetary constraints.
My 28er has a horizontal main sheet track and slide system for a Toey 9.8. No problems.
Select to expand quoteFabulousPhill said..BlueMoon said..
Very impressive solution there Phil, well done. A solution I'll no doubt be compelled to do if the YSE8 in my Compass 28 karks it.
BM, the idea isn't mine. I took at least 2 years to think about it, reading about in James Baldwin's / Atom pages in the link in my Compass group page. You have read my installation in the Compass Yacht Group, have you not?
groups.google.com/g/compass-yacht-group/c/4U5qWlntOoo .
It does fit the Compass lazarette, but it is a little awkward. Ideally I might move my traveller to the companionway area. I also required a wind vane sitting directly behind the motor, and a stern ladder, both of which are now installed and do not interfere with the motor tilting. In hindsight, making the OB well 2 inches wider, will give the motor the ability to rotate better, to help in making sharp turns when docking. When warm spring weather comes, it will be finished and painted.
The choice is sometimes clear: $3 - 4000 for a Yanmar rebuild with no warranties; $10 000 for a new diesel; or $1 300 for a near-new outboard motor and a bit of work with your angle grinder, plywood and epoxy. Sometimes it just comes down to budgetary constraints.
I really like the philosophy of Baldwin, giving old yachts a second life, that would otherwise not be financially viable to install a new diesel.
Yes Phil, I read your modifications on the Compass site some time back while you were undertaking the surgery, it's still a very impressive mod now, I remember having a reservation about the internal bulkheads on either side not going all the way up and potentially water coming in and over the bulkhead, any problems there?
No problems there. For some forgotten reason the side bulkheads were cut down to being only half-way up. In the past 3 winters there has not been any sinking or flooding when it was in Corinella nor now in the sheltered Gippsland Lakes. (Or the bilge pump works)) ). I do plan to take an inch off the height (so the motor can swing side-to-side more), but then plan to complete these bulkheads to the roof (to seal off the transom completely) with 6mm ply or so. That will give me peace of mind for coastal cruising. The side bulkheads are 18mm plywood, and the epoxy seals all the gaps, and grips the f/g hull really well. So in warmer weather I will seal off the transom, install better backing pads for the windvane supports and a b/pump outlet, and play around with the windvane and finally get to Hogan Island this summer.
I find geometry inside this lazarette/well difficult, so that is why it took time. Maybe that's also why I made them shorter, to avoid/postpone the odd shape fitting it to the horizontal part of the transom/laz area: there is a vertical reinforcing panel, and (to me) geometrically complex. One day soon.
In getting back to the original post: the Triton 24 may not be a well-known boat here, so a few photos of the lazarette area might help; and as we all have alluded to, there are several systems people have tried to tilt/lift/remove an outboard motor, but few are ideal solutions. It really depends on the dimensions involved. I used cables for a few years to the throttle and gear-shift, but still had to lift the OB on the OB bracket off the transom. Maybe a 2:1 or a 3:1 tackle to the pushpit might have helped, but in the end I am happier with having the motor inside the lazarette and being able to tilt.
