Fix the stove bulk head to the hull only one layer so far Ill add another tomorrow morning to me I seem to have had a nice epoxy session Sort of like driving a space ship from another planet for me anyway

southace said..
I hope that's not chopmat glass your using there?

Quadrilateral mat Boss man more tomorrow
I have to beat with a stick to get the epoxy through it . Three layers of that and I should not loose a crumpet in my Taylor Griller when she starts swinging .



20 KG of Brass stainless steel ,smoke and smell maybe. We will see how she goes and keep my fingers crossed

I was reminded today that I had bought some Tassy oak a while ago it its living in a mates shed forgot all about it.
So Ill have a pick through it set what it looks like.

SandS said..

Sorry HG , I thought I new what you were doing but, what are the ply things for ?

The port light outer ring as below goes through the the cabin side internally the ply spacers are glassed in and the outer rings will slide inside the spacer




In the above photo SandS visualize the outer port light ring sliding inside one of those spacers epoxied to the inside of the cabin. When its all done I will use
3M 4200 sealant run a bead around the inside of the outer ring slide the outer ring into the cut out and e bend those tabs sticking up the opposite way and screw the out rings onto the spacer inside the outer ring is then been fixed permanently to the boat.
Once this is done on one side I can then install my western red cedar on the inside of the cabin walls around the port light spacer.
Then a trim cover goes over where the cedar butts end at the port light . Once thats done I put sealant 3M 4200 around the flange of the inner ring of the port light and then screw the inner ring to the spacer.
In the photo below you can see how the two parts of the port light (outer ring , inner ring) fit together when completed.


But I have a slight adjustment to make the outer rings are to wide , and as Cisco surgested a while ago will be reduced using a slitter blade ( very thin cut off blade for a 5 inch angle grinder. and re weld the out rings securing tabs.

Once the ply wood spacers have cured and are fixed to the cabin side permanently Ill slide the outer rings into the cabin side and through the spacer . Ill then mark the out ring how far in protrudes though the spacer on all 6 port lights . cut them all with the 5 inch grinder and weld the tabs back on and its ready to install permanently. In the mean time a work mate will finish off the cabin side fairing and paint work. I'm taking a port light cut out with the original cabin side paint on it to Marine timbers in Seaford for a color match .
So todays effort will be adding more mat to the stove bulk head ( but I am running low on epoxy)
Gluing the ply wood spacers into position using Bote Cote E glue its a two part epoxy thickened glue http://www.marinetimbers.com.au/sc/105/epox-e-glue
Ive been emailing Andy Miller ( a you tube ship wright) concerning the port lights over the last few weeks so I do over look any thing and stuff it up.
He had a concern that using normal epoxy between the cabin side and the ply wood spacer and then clamping may bring stress between the cabin sides and the ply wood spacer which may distort the cabin side after releasing my clamps. So the bote cote E glue will be used and clamping will be very slight just to keep them in postion while the e glue cures . I am hoping this will take up any irregularities between both parts spacer and cabin sides
so today is glue the port light spacers and if I have any resin and hardener left Ill use all I have to add more mat to the stove bulkhead and then clean the boats interior its a real dusty and dirty mess. The cleaning might happen after work on the way home next week a couple of hours every night. Ill see how it all goes together today
Cheers HG02
Taking the cut out below for color matching this week



Jig saw blades do not like this stuff

SandS said..

thanks HG i think i,m with you now ..... packer required due to extra internal wall lining thickness? Windows selected to accommodate extra wall thickness?

It was not my pick of the litter these port lights,but they were thousands cheaper than the ones I wanted SandS. I think that make sense to ever one on here so it means a little bit more work modifying these port light to suit my boat thats all and the money I didnt spend well Id say it will go some where on this
B.O.A.T. = bring . on . another. thousand As a Quote from Cisco

andy59 said..
looks fantastic HG. By the way theses carbon ceramic blades worked a treat when I cut a hole to install me bulkhead compass.

Thanks Andy I will be getting some of those. I have been going through blades at a very fast rate I did buy some extra ones but as per usual D.K. > Me put them away so I would never loose them . Thats fine but I don't know where the blades are and will probably wont come across them for months.
I guess the bonus will be I will now buy those carbon ones I don't like people saying "smokin" when Im cutting fiber glass

The great thing about sanding above your head is no one knows if you have dandruff or not Andy
Well I stuck them bad boys in both sides



I managed both sides ok and then cleaned out the forward cabin and scrubbed it (Aldi clamps don't squeeze them to tight they break the one on the hard left I mean )


Next in there is two pack under coat . Ill see if I can do a some after work during the week a couple of hours a night should do it.
Tomorrow I'm going back to work for a rest

HG02 said..



I managed both sides ok and then cleaned out the forward cabin and scrubbed it (Aldi clamps don't squeeze them to tight they break the one on the hard left I mean )

As has been mentioned on this site previously, Aldi now only sells utter crap. Very poorly made Chinese junk that is bad value for money. I'm too poor to be able to afford to buy crap.

I could have squeezed hard with my thumb and index finger to be honest Loose change but they only had to hold it in place so I was careful with the other couple I had. The other clamps I got from Bunnings in a pack for $15 they worked just right for this job the handels are now covered in epoxy but they will still work OK.

HG02 said..

Donk107 said..
Hi HG

She is looking good

What is the piece of rope for that hangs from the anchor well for

Regards Don

Donk that's the toilet cistern you pull it down half way and it half flushes pull down hard and its a full flush only the Walker H28's came out with them as your is a sail master it would not have one
No Donk
Its actually the rope for the anchor well hatch. If you look closely under the anchor well to the left of the rope you can see the black kleat.

Hi HG

I see

It is to lock the hatch in closed position

You are right though , my Sailmaster does not have one

Regards Don

Stainless wire brush those bolts and re use them, soak the unexposed teak with linseed oil and bolt it back in.

Nothing wrong with 304 s/s. It is more malleable than 316 s/s but it does stain.

I used 304 s/s 12 mm wire to re-rig my 42 ft IOR 2 tonner some years ago upon the recommendation of the rigger as a stronger and longer lasting as well as a more economical material to use.

It will not stay as shiny as 316 s/s due to not having as much nickel in the metal but it will not work harden and therefore become brittle as soon as 316 s/s, or so I am told.

If I need to be corrected on that, fire away anybody.

What is your advice LooseChange??

I have no advice, mechanically 304 and 316 are identical, both having a tensile strength of 515 MPa and as you point out, 304 has a lower nickel content, although both will exibit tea staining.

DrRog said..
Here's the link to my blog post on the re-rig: http://www.adventuresinbob.com/the-big-re-rig-part-2/

Been slack with the blog but this one's on time.

Thanks for the blog DR Rog Ill be reading up after I post what I did tonight after work



The plastic and tape make them look crooked there not though. I was to lazy to take it off for the photo as It was a quick working bee to sand down the port light cut out and the spacer to there aligned together there close now there still a little snug but Ill do some more tomorrow after work . I slid the outer rings into place and marked where they have to be cut. I think Ill wiat till the cabin sides are faired and ready to paint before I cut them it might take more time but a better job.

Those windows look absolutely frigging marvelous HG !!!!!!

I think if I were in you shoes I would be spending a large percentage of my future standing staring out my new port holes !!!!!!

Enjoy. !!!

Thanks Guys Im sort of looking forward to when I can put some thing in where did you go on your sailing boat .Today but its a bit far off yet Ill get these port light in and gimbal the stove and take Dirftwood for a motor into port philip soon

In a borat voice "very nice!!!!". Nice Windows HG.