I just cannot get excited about moving north any further. The thought of it makes me anxious. The thought of heading south feels better but dissapoints me as we're only at bundy.
We've travelled far but right now im mentally stuck on this bundy to pancake creek passage.
I see all the negatives. Shallow water. Sand bars. Bugger all bolt holes. Low lands making anchoring on tidal rivers not very secure or sheltered. The majority of the anchorages are exposed to either wind , swell or both.
Getting in close isn't an option in a lot of places either with the big tides and shoaling.
Mud flats don't excite me at all.
I really don't know what to bloody do. !

SS, agree with SB have a day or two to see the world off the boat. From Bundy you are a days sailing from Agnes Waters which has safe holes for all weather, then on to Gladstone which is about the most convenient point for provisioning until Mackay. You have reached the southern end of the barrier reef, so the hard part has been done , the Keppel's and Percy all too close to miss now.
Brett

Agnes waters/1770 is a great spot. You do need a high tide - we anchored outside for the night, which was fine. The local VMR is super helpful.

When we've had a difficult or tiring time, we've found a few days in a marina very good for recharging. If it's somewhere where yachties gather, it can be good for swapping stories and relaxing at the bbq. I really respect your no marinas approach, just a thought.

Gladstone was cheap, very well run, convenient and a really good bbq in the park by the marina. Mackay was the cheapest and still good.

In your boat you could easily go up the narrows from gladstone - an easy flat run.

Cheers

Bristle

Ps. 1st night on new manson supreme 25lb. Set well. So far, so good.

Mrs doesn't wanna go sleep ashore and we cannot go to marinas in qld.
Making way south from tomorrow. Over it.
Boats on gumtree.
Its not that we're scared or anything but im finding without an outboard dinghy the distances ashore are getting greater and still no white sandy beaches and clear water . No swimming barely. Havent used snorkelling gear since nsw when i dove the hull.
I honestly felt more in control in 5 m seas in nsw in deep water than in these swirly tidal anchorages and the shallow hervey bay.
I guess its just not for me.
Done.

Toph said..
Not now mate. Keep going until the wind turns. If you've got it in you, make a big overnight push to Hammucky Is or Great Keppel, or even miss them and go straight to Rosslyn Bay, stay in the marina there (it really is very nice and quiet and can stick up in Yeppon) and do a day trip over to the Keppels. That way you can skip all the tidal issues you are facing at 1770 and Pancake Ck (which are over rated anyway). From Rosslyn, go to Pearl Bay (longish day hop) for a few days then Middle Percy. Those two places on their own should reinvigorate your dreams.

NOW THIS IS MY OPINION ONLY.

The Allen Lucus book if that is what you are using is great for information and to use as a general tool for planing. If you are discounting anchorages because he says they are prone to swell, then stop. In this regard I found the book to be rather negative. You will go nowhere if you choose destinations based on only good reports of this guide.... some of our best nights where at places rubbished by Alan (on more then a few occasions -but overall it was a useful publication).

Lastly, don't feel bad by wanting to get off the boat for a few days. I arrived in Broome today. We haven't been off the boat since May (although we have stayed in a few marinas). After spending nearly a month in the Kimberleys, dealing with 12m tides and at times 10kt currents, the missus and kids decided we were getting off for a few days. And I must admit I didn't put up a fight. Refresh, then make a decision. Don't sell yourself short.

Thanks TH.
The alan lucas book is useless mostly. Haven't even been using it for a while. The other thing is theres been alot of northerlies. This means that most the great sandys is exposed as was much of north Moreton bay as was canaipa passage. This meant moving to less nice anchorages to be out of the wind.
The other problem is my mrs and i cant seem to have a rational problem solving conversation.
Im more than happy to take 2 months going south. I really liked Moreton bay. Best swimming place i saw so far.

Toph said..

Sectorsteve said..

Toph said..
Not now mate. Keep going until the wind turns. If you've got it in you, make a big overnight push to Hammucky Is or Great Keppel, or even miss them and go straight to Rosslyn Bay, stay in the marina there (it really is very nice and quiet and can stick up in Yeppon) and do a day trip over to the Keppels. That way you can skip all the tidal issues you are facing at 1770 and Pancake Ck (which are over rated anyway). From Rosslyn, go to Pearl Bay (longish day hop) for a few days then Middle Percy. Those two places on their own should reinvigorate your dreams.

NOW THIS IS MY OPINION ONLY.

The Allen Lucus book if that is what you are using is great for information and to use as a general tool for planing. If you are discounting anchorages because he says they are prone to swell, then stop. In this regard I found the book to be rather negative. You will go nowhere if you choose destinations based on only good reports of this guide.... some of our best nights where at places rubbished by Alan (on more then a few occasions -but overall it was a useful publication).

Lastly, don't feel bad by wanting to get off the boat for a few days. I arrived in Broome today. We haven't been off the boat since May (although we have stayed in a few marinas). After spending nearly a month in the Kimberleys, dealing with 12m tides and at times 10kt currents, the missus and kids decided we were getting off for a few days. And I must admit I didn't put up a fight. Refresh, then make a decision. Don't sell yourself short.

problem is my mrs and i cant seem to have a rational problem solving conversation.

Are we married to the same person? If so who is this with me right now? So confused...

My solo trips were waaaaaay nicer.! Nothing against her. Theres just less problems when alone an no one to fight with.

Toph said..
My missus had no idea 4 months ago. Now she would pick a fight with Christopher Columbus.

And don't get me started on the boys (8 and 10) who know everything about everything (granted they have been incredible with what they have picked up from absolute zero experience. It just means that we now have 4 chiefs in our tribe).

I totally get why many don't sail with wives or are single and living on boats. Takes a certain type of person to be successful at this stuff.
My mrs is also a pro. Funny that seeing as i do literally everything.

shaggybaxter said..
Steve,
Couple of options for you if this helps.
I've got an inflatable, outboard and electric pump, if you like I can ship it up to wherever you are if you cover the freight cost. Just drop it off at Manly on your way back through.
Might make a difference if you can get on or off the boat easily?
Or if you come back through this way, stop in, pick it up and go swanning about Moreton bay for a while before you head back south, just drop it off before you depart south mate.
For that matter, if you do come through Moreton Bay, anchor up somewhere and we'll pick you up and take you for a sail, sometimes it's nice to kick back and not have to worry about the local nuances.

Geez thats generous. Thank you so much. I wont do it though. Prone to breaking things I am. I would love to have a beer with you over at peel or the bay somewhere.
The trips really been about the amazing people weve met.

Toph said..

Sectorsteve said..
The trips really been about the amazing people weve met.

Well if that's all you take away from this trip, then you are still in front. You've got to do what's right for you n the missus.

Well shes annoyed. She wants to keep going. I dont. Im just not keen to invest more time up muddy rivers and navigating sand bars and huge tides . i reckon there's another 140nm of them til beaches. At least south i know theres good nice places. I want to chill.
bloody exhausted.

My first reply will keep you away from muddy rivers and shallow sand bars. High tides in that part of the world is harder to avoid but you are coming back into neaps for now. Middle Percy was by far the highest tide range Inexperienced on the east coast at 6mtrs.

Sectorsteve said..

Donk107 said..
Hi Steve

I noticed in a previous post you said you can't go into Queensland marinas and i am just wondering what is your reason for that

It also sounds like there is a fair bit of tension on the boat between you and your wife

Do you think that heading south is going to improve the relationship of make it worse

Regards Don

Hi Don.
Need fully comp insurance to go to qld marinas. .
Yeah prob make it worse.
We'll see

Hi Steve

I wonder if anyone who is only staying for a couple of days in a marina ever gets asked to show their insurance documents

Regards Don

Donk107 said..

Sectorsteve said..

Donk107 said..
Hi Steve

I noticed in a previous post you said you can't go into Queensland marinas and i am just wondering what is your reason for that

It also sounds like there is a fair bit of tension on the boat between you and your wife

Do you think that heading south is going to improve the relationship of make it worse

Regards Don

Hi Don.
Need fully comp insurance to go to qld marinas. .
Yeah prob make it worse.
We'll see

Hi Steve

I wonder if anyone who is only staying for a couple of days in a marina ever gets asked to show their insurance documents

Regards Don

They sure do.

WindWaterSailAU said..
Hi Steve

We did a similar first time cruising trip in 2010 before starting a family.
Same area, same destination as you were planning on and two of us with a small dog in a slow 28 ft boat. Living in an area the size of a small bathroom with anyone for an extended period is going to take its toll. Combine that with nerves, the unknown and some challenging tidal waters and you have the ideal scenario for conflict which really detracts from the trip.

A number of experienced cruisers have told you that you are just getting to the good part, I'll add my single 2010 experience to that without any doubt. Listen to us.

You have some things to sort out:
Get off the boat for a while and get some solo time- perhaps hire a car and drive North to check out the areas you will be passing through, helps with the unknowns.
Get a decent outboard \ tender sorted out - vital if you are avoiding Marinas. If it is insurance stopping you going into Marinas - why not get better insurance for a while ? We had great fun and camaraderie with fellow cruisers in Marinas along way.
All the above will cost you probably $1-2k.

Can you not leave your boat on a swing mooring in Bundaberg for a bit while you think things out?

So mate, have a cry, have another one and then get yourself together and at least push on to the Keppels, where you can quite happily while away a month having awesome adventures. If you choose not to continue from there then so be it. As someone who is faced with heading into their mundane job for another mind numbing week tomorrow morning - I really hope you don't change your plans too soon. Opportunities like the one you have now don't come along too often - no matter how hard you work.

The mrs seems to think that those suggestions are silly. I dont. Makes alot of sense to me.
We dont have 1-2k to spend.
We both run businesses from our phones. Money in. Money out. Insurance was organised but i didnt follow it through as it was only going to be valid for this trip based on where my boat will live after we return . also not valid in cyclone areas from October. Seemed like a waste of money and i never wanted to go into marinas anyway.
Im happy to go south. Ive seen nowhere as nice as jervis bay and i miss it.
I spent so much on boat beforehand but a tender with ob would have been ideal. Oh well.

Sectorsteve said..

Donk107 said..

Sectorsteve said..

Donk107 said..
Hi Steve

I noticed in a previous post you said you can't go into Queensland marinas and i am just wondering what is your reason for that

It also sounds like there is a fair bit of tension on the boat between you and your wife

Do you think that heading south is going to improve the relationship of make it worse

Regards Don

Hi Don.
Need fully comp insurance to go to qld marinas. .
Yeah prob make it worse.
We'll see

Hi Steve

I wonder if anyone who is only staying for a couple of days in a marina ever gets asked to show their insurance documents

Regards Don

They sure do.

Fair enough

Regards Don

Steve,

Here's my perspective. Firstly, on sailing with your partner: stick with it! I'm very rarely onboard without my wife, and all our cruising is together. Wouldn't have it any other way. Sure there are disagreements - she is much more conservative than I am - but being able to share these wonderful experiences makes up for it all.

Now, I acknowledge some of the points you've made, but there are two big positives about cruising in QLD vs NSW:
Firstly, no worries about ocean swell. Once you're north of Mooloolaba, you're sheltered either by Frazer Island or the outer reef. If you've made it as far as Bundaberg, you've done the hard bit! And secondly, there's no need for night sailing. Everything is a day-sail. Your Bundaberg to Pancake is a big one, but still should be doable if you start early. You can shorten it a bit by stopping overnight at 1770 - if the weather is from the south, you can anchor off the entrance quite comfortably, you don't need to enter the main anchorage (which has problems with both depth at the entrance, and available room once you're inside).

Now a few other comments.

There's no doubt your need to keep out of marinas is limiting. And that combined with a lack of a decent dinghy/outboard is a killer combination. Ideally you need to fix one or both of these - either get the insurance so that you can get into marinas, or get an outboard for your dinghy so you can get to dry land while anchored off. Sorry mate, but doing it the way you are is REALLY roughing it, and does preclude cruising in much of Queensland. North of Bundaberg, the ports where you can anchor off, then row to shore for supplies would be very limited. I can only think of Airlie and maybe Mackay, but others may have a different opinion.

If a big objective is sandy beaches and swimming, the Keppels are your best bet and only two or three days from where you are at Bundaberg. Fantastic clear water, and half a dozen or more beaches - you'll find a sheltered one no matter what wind is blowing. If you're interested in snorkeling, then again the Keppels have amazing coral reefs, and of course the offshore islands (Lady Musgrave to North West) are probably the best snorkeling on the whole Barrier Reef - although a bit challenging to get to.

Yes, the anchorages are very different to NSW. Shallow entrances are only really a problem in 1770 and Yellowpatch - most of the rest of the common anchorages are accessible all tide and are well charted. Lucas is useful, also Patrick's Curtis Coast guide. The big tides take some getting used to - especially in spring tides, they can keep you well offshore. And north of Bundaberg, anchorages are often somewhat exposed and a bit roll-prone (Yellowpatch, where we are right now, is an exception!) You could also find lots of sheltered places around Gladstone. You'll often find yourself in a narrow waterway that has significant tidal flows, and finding the right spot to drop the pick, taking into account depth and swinging room, might take a few tries if there are other boats.

And yes, with all the northerlies this has been a trying year. There are not nearly as many northerly-sheltered anchorages as there are from the south. And of course it's been much more difficult than usual to make headway when going north.

I hope you can find your way to travel a bit further north - you've done the hard bit, and there are some fantastic places not far from you now. We're now heading south, and should be in Gladstone tomorrow - if you see us somewhere (Allons-y), drop in and say hello!

This might be helpful regarding your relationship

Lower Your Expectations

In your little casa on the hill, you are quickly coming to realize that she is not the wife you had hoped for. He's not the husband you always dreamed of. Every day there are hundreds of things he or she does that you never expected - and most of those things annoy you, frustrate you, or hurt your feelings. All of a sudden everything that your spouse does is wrong (or perhaps just different than the way you would do it) and seems to give you reason to constantly be angry, critical, and/or frustrated!

Your husband or wife isn't who you thought they were.

Or, are your expectations simply too high?

A wise elderly woman was asked the secret to her long and happy marriage. Her response?

"I lowered my expectations."

Do it. Just lower your expectations. That simple act will reduce conflict and contention in your marriage, and will change the way you view that dashing husband or beautiful wife of yours. To put it simply...
?Assume less. Take a good look in the mirror.Don't sweat the small stuff. Don't expect perfection from your spouse.
"Don't try to make him into what you want him to be. You fell in love with what he is. He will still grow. But you'll learn from experience to trust what he does rather than jumping to negative conclusions when you don't understand something."

Instead of trying to change your husband or wife to fit your expectations, choose to love and celebrate the differences that make both of you unique and wonderful. Embrace imperfection and realize that change and progress are possible, which is pretty good news.

Regards Don