Hi all
just wondering if anyone has come across this style
stuffing gland ? (First picture is mine the other is courtesy of the internet) I made the mistake of a recent haul out of not repacking as I was going to haul out again in probably a year maybe less in anticipation of a bigger trip and honestly I got overwhelmed by other boat jobs but now it has a steady drip that can't be adjusted as before, my concern is the locking nut doesn't seem to have enough room for packing? I've repacked others where I could fit 2 to 3 bits of packing, tempted to do it in the water as I have done before but not sure about this style
Thanks in advance Also have large submersible pump plugged in and ready to pump out a swimming pool just in case
Don't worry about doing it in the water, I did mine with no problems.
You'll probably be surprised how little water flows in, as it's restricted by the cutless and shaft growth. You could further reduce the flow (to almost nothing) as I did by going for a swim, wrapping a cloth around the shaft and pushing it up against the cutless.
But before you commit, just try taking it off briefly to satisfy yourself.
Cheers, Graeme
My old fishing vessel had a similar setup but it had a locking nut behind the adjustment nut and it was much larger. I used to repack it in the water and not worry about the water coming in. I had a comfortable spot to work in and plenty of bilge pumps. The adjustment nut set up has the advantage it provides equal pressure on the packing and with a locking nut you can make fine adjustments.
I adjusted my stern gland yesterday on my yacht. It's the type that has a bolt either side that is tightened up evenly to provide pressure on the packing. Naturally it was not tightened up evenly and was dripping a bit. I have a grease nipple on mine too which I never discovered till yesterday!
Hi Guys
So repacking in the water was straightforward not enough water to be concerned with. But !!
Unfortunately (or fortunately as the boat is still floating safe in a marina) when trying to get the lock nut back on and push the stuffing back a little further The stuffing box has broken due to corrosion. Scary part is I cleaned it up with a brass wire brush and it looked fine from the outside.
Anyway now have to make the decision if I go for a PSS seal or stuffing box ( pros and cons for both)
probably a blessing the way it happened and not at sea or anchor somewhere
Cheers
Bloody hell. boats can be a pain sometimes. You'll get heaps of pro's and cons for both options. I like the simplicity and reliability of a stuffing box. You can still do the replacement in the water but you'll have to remove the prop shaft coupling,, and make sure the shaft can't slip out.
Cheers, Graeme
Heaps of on line opinions for PSS, Tides and stuffing boxes. eg
www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s3/pss-maintenance-66617.html
Probably your stuffing box failed by dezincification - how old was it?
wieland-chase.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/Dezincification-Web-Class-ver-2-12-2020.pdf
Putting 2005 Beta 13.5hp diesel in 1983 25fter next week with new gland, 1/2 coupling and packing, also proper stern tube 5 laminates rubber hose - if it works will post.
Yes dezincification. Stuck out there on the end of a rubber hose, SS shaft close by and no electrical connection to an anode. I had to replace a bronze stern tube years ago that was 8 foot x 4 inches!
That's a nice looking stern gland and it's the sort I would prefer to have on my boat. Puts a more even pressure on the packing. Mine is the two bolt set up and it's not perfectly even. It does have a grease nipple though and I gave it some grease yesterday which stopped the occasional drip.
Ok great thanks for confirmation. Cripes that's a lot of stern tube to replaced, a total pain. Re the electrical connection I haven't been able to conclude on that yet for the whole drive train. Drive train fwd to aft being the Beta 13.5hp, TMC40M gbx, R+D flex coupling 82.5mm pcd (the flex element has steel tube compression inserts for the 8 bolts so there will be a degree of metal to metal contact through it), Polyflex 1/2 coupling, 3/4" shaft starts, gland with teflon packing, stern tube hose, shaft continues with anode between stern tube exit and p bracket entry, 3 blade bronze prop. Hope shaft, stern tube outer bearing and p bracket bearing are ok when slipped, as well as prop. So if you have a recommendation re electrical connection that would be really appreciated. Else I will post on the Beta global FB site.
Yes I have worked on the drive train aft of the coupling for over a year as the axial space is tight. Nearly went down the 2 bolt type set-up but when Polyflex and Glen at DHPorter confirmed that a shorter 1/2 coupling with just two bolts would be ok for that torque it was back to that type with the extra axial distance available - seems it is called a spud type.
If that stuffing box is stainless steel I would forget about an anode. I have just finished installing a TMC40 gearbox in my boat.
Select to expand quoter13 said..
Ok great thanks for confirmation. Cripes that's a lot of stern tube to replaced, a total pain. Re the electrical connection I haven't been able to conclude on that yet for the whole drive train. Drive train fwd to aft being the Beta 13.5hp, TMC40M gbx, R+D flex coupling 82.5mm pcd (the flex element has steel tube compression inserts for the 8 bolts so there will be a degree of metal to metal contact through it), Polyflex 1/2 coupling, 3/4" shaft starts, gland with teflon packing, stern tube hose, shaft continues with anode between stern tube exit and p bracket entry, 3 blade bronze prop. Hope shaft, stern tube outer bearing and p bracket bearing are ok when slipped, as well as prop. So if you have a recommendation re electrical connection that would be really appreciated. Else I will post on the Beta global FB site.
Yes I have worked on the drive train aft of the coupling for over a year as the axial space is tight. Nearly went down the 2 bolt type set-up but when Polyflex and Glen at DHPorter confirmed that a shorter 1/2 coupling with just two bolts would be ok for that torque it was back to that type with the extra axial distance available - seems it is called a spud type.
I can't imagine with a glass boat there would be a need for a bronze stern tube ? I may be wrong? Any way that's a simple thing to bond. It seems that the "floating stern gland " is an issue a local Adam's had a similar failure recently. If deemed necessary to bond the floating gland a second lock nut could be employed to clamp the bond cable to the standing part of the gland ie where the hose clamps on. But in your case it appears you have stainless gland and stainless shaft ? So a prop anode is all that's needed. Here's a pic of stern tube bond that I will be double checking after Ramona's comment about replacing the tube
The bronze stern tube I replaced was in my wooden fishing vessel which was 68 years old when I sold her. The tube had a fine thread each end and simply screwed on to the fixed fittings. Originally it had a bronze shaft but was later changed to SS. Changing the tube was fairly easy.
Select to expand quotewoko said..r13 said..
Ok great thanks for confirmation. Cripes that's a lot of stern tube to replaced, a total pain. Re the electrical connection I haven't been able to conclude on that yet for the whole drive train. Drive train fwd to aft being the Beta 13.5hp, TMC40M gbx, R+D flex coupling 82.5mm pcd (the flex element has steel tube compression inserts for the 8 bolts so there will be a degree of metal to metal contact through it), Polyflex 1/2 coupling, 3/4" shaft starts, gland with teflon packing, stern tube hose, shaft continues with anode between stern tube exit and p bracket entry, 3 blade bronze prop. Hope shaft, stern tube outer bearing and p bracket bearing are ok when slipped, as well as prop. So if you have a recommendation re electrical connection that would be really appreciated. Else I will post on the Beta global FB site.
Yes I have worked on the drive train aft of the coupling for over a year as the axial space is tight. Nearly went down the 2 bolt type set-up but when Polyflex and Glen at DHPorter confirmed that a shorter 1/2 coupling with just two bolts would be ok for that torque it was back to that type with the extra axial distance available - seems it is called a spud type.
I can't imagine with a glass boat there would be a need for a bronze stern tube ? I may be wrong? Any way that's a simple thing to bond. It seems that the "floating stern gland " is an issue a local Adam's had a similar failure recently. If deemed necessary to bond the floating gland a second lock nut could be employed to clamp the bond cable to the standing part of the gland ie where the hose clamps on. But in your case it appears you have stainless gland and stainless shaft ? So a prop anode is all that's needed. Here's a pic of stern tube bond that I will be double checking after Ramona's comment about replacing the tube
I see lots of grease on the possibly coach screws at the bottom of the photo. Do you have water leaking past the screw heads?
Na that was an old pic the whole unit is water tight except the gland of course. But I will be inspecting that connection, I really don't want to replace that tube !
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
If that stuffing box is stainless steel I would forget about an anode. I have just finished installing a TMC40 gearbox in my boat.
Thanks - the stuffing box is not ss - rather a bronze of some configuration
Select to expand quoteRamona said..woko said..r13 said..
Ok great thanks for confirmation. Cripes that's a lot of stern tube to replaced, a total pain. Re the electrical connection I haven't been able to conclude on that yet for the whole drive train. Drive train fwd to aft being the Beta 13.5hp, TMC40M gbx, R+D flex coupling 82.5mm pcd (the flex element has steel tube compression inserts for the 8 bolts so there will be a degree of metal to metal contact through it), Polyflex 1/2 coupling, 3/4" shaft starts, gland with teflon packing, stern tube hose, shaft continues with anode between stern tube exit and p bracket entry, 3 blade bronze prop. Hope shaft, stern tube outer bearing and p bracket bearing are ok when slipped, as well as prop. So if you have a recommendation re electrical connection that would be really appreciated. Else I will post on the Beta global FB site.
Yes I have worked on the drive train aft of the coupling for over a year as the axial space is tight. Nearly went down the 2 bolt type set-up but when Polyflex and Glen at DHPorter confirmed that a shorter 1/2 coupling with just two bolts would be ok for that torque it was back to that type with the extra axial distance available - seems it is called a spud type.
I can't imagine with a glass boat there would be a need for a bronze stern tube ? I may be wrong? Any way that's a simple thing to bond. It seems that the "floating stern gland " is an issue a local Adam's had a similar failure recently. If deemed necessary to bond the floating gland a second lock nut could be employed to clamp the bond cable to the standing part of the gland ie where the hose clamps on. But in your case it appears you have stainless gland and stainless shaft ? So a prop anode is all that's needed. Here's a pic of stern tube bond that I will be double checking after Ramona's comment about replacing the tube
I see lots of grease on the possibly coach screws at the bottom of the photo. Do you have water leaking past the screw heads?
Bronze stuffing box, ss shaft, grp stern tube.
Gee in the pic the packing gland looks like stainless, the way I would go about bonding the gland is to employ another nut the same as the lock nut and use it to clamp the bond cable to the standing part of the gland ie where the hose clamps on, would be neater than hose clamping the cable. Either would work but necessary in the light of recent failures
Select to expand quoter13 said..Ramona said..woko said..r13 said..
Ok great thanks for confirmation. Cripes that's a lot of stern tube to replaced, a total pain. Re the electrical connection I haven't been able to conclude on that yet for the whole drive train. Drive train fwd to aft being the Beta 13.5hp, TMC40M gbx, R+D flex coupling 82.5mm pcd (the flex element has steel tube compression inserts for the 8 bolts so there will be a degree of metal to metal contact through it), Polyflex 1/2 coupling, 3/4" shaft starts, gland with teflon packing, stern tube hose, shaft continues with anode between stern tube exit and p bracket entry, 3 blade bronze prop. Hope shaft, stern tube outer bearing and p bracket bearing are ok when slipped, as well as prop. So if you have a recommendation re electrical connection that would be really appreciated. Else I will post on the Beta global FB site.
Yes I have worked on the drive train aft of the coupling for over a year as the axial space is tight. Nearly went down the 2 bolt type set-up but when Polyflex and Glen at DHPorter confirmed that a shorter 1/2 coupling with just two bolts would be ok for that torque it was back to that type with the extra axial distance available - seems it is called a spud type.
I can't imagine with a glass boat there would be a need for a bronze stern tube ? I may be wrong? Any way that's a simple thing to bond. It seems that the "floating stern gland " is an issue a local Adam's had a similar failure recently. If deemed necessary to bond the floating gland a second lock nut could be employed to clamp the bond cable to the standing part of the gland ie where the hose clamps on. But in your case it appears you have stainless gland and stainless shaft ? So a prop anode is all that's needed. Here's a pic of stern tube bond that I will be double checking after Ramona's comment about replacing the tube
I see lots of grease on the possibly coach screws at the bottom of the photo. Do you have water leaking past the screw heads?
Bronze stuffing box, ss shaft, grp stern tube.
I still would not bother with connecting it electrically. Just a shaft anode. Mine is a similar set up and is 40 years old and I'm expecting another 40.
Select to expand quotewongaga said..
Bloody hell. boats can be a pain sometimes. You'll get heaps of pro's and cons for both options. I like the simplicity and reliability of a stuffing box. You can still do the replacement in the water but you'll have to remove the prop shaft coupling,, and make sure the shaft can't slip out.
Cheers, Graeme
I will have to check but I'm pretty sure the prop hits the rudder stopping it from dropping out. I might try in the water
Thanks
Select to expand quoteRamona said..r13 said..Ramona said..woko said..r13 said..
Ok great thanks for confirmation. Cripes that's a lot of stern tube to replaced, a total pain. Re the electrical connection I haven't been able to conclude on that yet for the whole drive train. Drive train fwd to aft being the Beta 13.5hp, TMC40M gbx, R+D flex coupling 82.5mm pcd (the flex element has steel tube compression inserts for the 8 bolts so there will be a degree of metal to metal contact through it), Polyflex 1/2 coupling, 3/4" shaft starts, gland with teflon packing, stern tube hose, shaft continues with anode between stern tube exit and p bracket entry, 3 blade bronze prop. Hope shaft, stern tube outer bearing and p bracket bearing are ok when slipped, as well as prop. So if you have a recommendation re electrical connection that would be really appreciated. Else I will post on the Beta global FB site.
Yes I have worked on the drive train aft of the coupling for over a year as the axial space is tight. Nearly went down the 2 bolt type set-up but when Polyflex and Glen at DHPorter confirmed that a shorter 1/2 coupling with just two bolts would be ok for that torque it was back to that type with the extra axial distance available - seems it is called a spud type.
I can't imagine with a glass boat there would be a need for a bronze stern tube ? I may be wrong? Any way that's a simple thing to bond. It seems that the "floating stern gland " is an issue a local Adam's had a similar failure recently. If deemed necessary to bond the floating gland a second lock nut could be employed to clamp the bond cable to the standing part of the gland ie where the hose clamps on. But in your case it appears you have stainless gland and stainless shaft ? So a prop anode is all that's needed. Here's a pic of stern tube bond that I will be double checking after Ramona's comment about replacing the tube
I see lots of grease on the possibly coach screws at the bottom of the photo. Do you have water leaking past the screw heads?
Bronze stuffing box, ss shaft, grp stern tube.
I still would not bother with connecting it electrically. Just a shaft anode. Mine is a similar set up and is 40 years old and I'm expecting another 40.
Great thanks Woko and Ramona - will just stay with the shaft anode, no electrical connection.
Select to expand quoteJayde28 said..wongaga said..
Bloody hell. boats can be a pain sometimes. You'll get heaps of pro's and cons for both options. I like the simplicity and reliability of a stuffing box. You can still do the replacement in the water but you'll have to remove the prop shaft coupling,, and make sure the shaft can't slip out.
Cheers, Graeme
I will have to check but I'm pretty sure the prop hits the rudder stopping it from dropping out. I might try in the water
Thanks
If not, just put a hose clamp on the shaft.
