13 volts plus in all batteries. Does not work when I use the engine or house batteries.
No power going the switch?
Any ideas please?
More details would be good.
The switch doesn't work / the solenoid doesn't move / or the starter doesn't start. What noises accompanies flicking on the switch?
What if you rotated the engine by hand half a turn or so, using the decompression lever? Would it start then?
Is it an electrical problem or mechanical?
Whatever the problem is (sounds electrical), do not use "Start Ya Bastard" (ether). The engine will become addicted to it. Like heroin to a junkie.
Select to expand quotecisco said..
Whatever the problem is (sounds electrical), do not use "Start Ya Bastard" (ether). The engine will become addicted to it. Like heroin to a junkie.
BIG plus one for the "Start ya Bastard Comment' . I've been involved with small diesels now for too long and I can back that comment to the hilt, and could not have described it better ( heron / junkie comment ) If there is absolutely no turn of the motor at all then you have a serious loss of power to the starter / coil or a selection of other issues but more info would good to be able to give you some guidelines as to where to start to look. Might be something as simple as a 'dry joint' or a bad / corroded connection.
Keep us in the loop. 
I'd be starting at the ignition switch if it's still the same one you had before, checking with multimeter. Next I'd check the solenoid on the starter and after that it'd be checking the rest of the cables for power. Some dismantling might be required.
Taking a step back. are your cabin lights, Nav gear and fridge working? Can you turn all this gear on at once? Are all battery cables/terminals clean and firmly tightened? When you turn ignition on, does the engine panel light work? Does it go dim when you advance the key to starter? As others have suggested, time for careful visual inspection, test connections, and if necessary give us some more information:)
Select to expand quoteFabulousPhill said..
More details would be good.
The switch doesn't work / the solenoid doesn't move / or the starter doesn't start. What noises accompanies flicking on the switch?
What if you rotated the engine by hand half a turn or so, using the decompression lever? Would it start then?
Is it an electrical problem or mechanical?
No power to the pre ignition which is a buzzer and no light for the ignition and nothing happens when I turned the switch. No noise of any sort.
And "No start you bastard"
The boat was working normally a month ago.
Maybe just a loose connect on the battery.
I will check that and use the power meter to see if I am getting any power to the ignition.
I may get out to the boat again today.
Will let you know,
Hi BB
A multi meter is great for telling you resistance and voltage but I think a light is the fastest way to trace down a fault.
Works in the dark too.
This is one I made up temporarily about 40 years ago. Instrument light from an old Suzuki.
gary
Select to expand quotegarymalmgren said..
Hi BB
A multi meter is great for telling you resistance and voltage but I think a light is the fastest way to trace down a fault.
Works in the dark too.
This is one I made up temporarily about 40 years ago. Instrument light from an old Suzuki.
gary
Great idea
Check the earth cable where it bolts onto the engine block. Pull it off and clean both surfaces. If you use a rotary battery switch check this has not fallen apart inside. Probably time to invest in a quality switch anyway. Check out the quality stuff then buy a Blue Seas
www.theboatwarehouse.com.au/electrical-battery-solar/switches/blue-sea-systems-e-series-battery-switch-selector-4-position/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIudPg7bax-AIVEgByCh0F4gFrEAsYASABEgLhnfD_BwE
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Check the earth cable where it bolts onto the engine block. Pull it off and clean both surfaces. If you use a rotary battery switch check this has not fallen apart inside. Probably time to invest in a quality switch anyway. Check out the quality stuff then buy a Blue Seas
www.theboatwarehouse.com.au/electrical-battery-solar/switches/blue-sea-systems-e-series-battery-switch-selector-4-position/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIudPg7bax-AIVEgByCh0F4gFrEAsYASABEgLhnfD_BwE
Good Advice !!
The Boat Warehouse has Quality Nieche
Products !!
Cheers..
I have a beta diesel on mine , same thing , the plug on the wiring harness at the engine came apart , it's in a rubber "case" so you couldn't tell until I gave it a tug. Maybe something similar .
As suggested, dodgy switch, broken wire or poor connection. The old arc the starter with a screwdriver will be a ready reconer if it's the starter or other, if you can get to it, not always possible on a boat. Most machines have another press button start located in the engine bay,for maintenance purposes, not a bad idea on a yacht for a fail safe as the starter switch is usually exposed
Check batteries first. Send us the voltage. It's been cold and many batteries are death as a result of that. How old are batteries? Do you have solar panels charging your batteries? You sad no lights, nothing.. A week a go I went to my boat and both batteries showed 13.6v. A day after both batteries flat as.. solar panels were charging the batteries. Both batteries dropped the cell..
check if your alternator is charging once you get your engine back. Mine didn't work all summer and my coffee machine and microwave just killed the batteries even solar panels were charging the batteris and voltage was always between 13.3 and 14.1..
Select to expand quotesaltiest1 said..
I'd be starting at the ignition switch if it's still the same one you had before, checking with multimeter. Next I'd check the solenoid on the starter and after that it'd be checking the rest of the cables for power. Some dismantling might be required.
Hi Saltiest,
It a new ignition switch.
Success.
Firstly I tested the batteries which showed the same 13 volts plus as yesterday.
I then tried to get a reading on the ignition switch without a result.
I understand my system worked this way.
I turn the switch from the engine battery on.
The preheat switch when turned on buzzes.
Again I had no sound from it.
I tried the key initially without success but turned it further forward and got the buzzing sound. I held it in this position and eventually the motor started.
I ran it for a while turn it off and turned the key again. This time I found a position before ignition that gave me the buzzing sound.
I have never heard it before because it always came on with the separate switch before I put the key in.
It seems that while my preheat switch is still not working the way it did, the ignition switch does the preheat and then ignition.
I tried a few hours later and the engine started using the ignition switch as detailed before.
This is my understanding of the situation but others may have a different interpretation.
I am very happy and thankful to all who gave advice.
As long as you realize it's not an ignition switch, it's just a switch. Most boats will need a battery switch to select the battery to be used. Then there is a switch to supply power to the starter motor and boats services. Usually there is a push button for the preheat [glow plugs] if fitted and that is held in for 10 seconds or so and then a starter button supplies power to the solenoid.
I have a terminal in the engine bay that has leads to the solenoid and to the glow plugs. I have a jumper cable to supply 12v positive to the glow plugs for 10 seconds then I place it on the starter solenoid terminal and start the engine. This is much easier than trying to jump across the terminals on the starter motor with a screw driver in a confined space.
It's much easier to make up these items ahead of time so that if you get down to your boat and there is a problem you don't lose a days sailing.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
As long as you realize it's not an ignition switch, it's just a switch. Most boats will need a battery switch to select the battery to be used. Then there is a switch to supply power to the starter motor and boats services. Usually there is a push button for the preheat [glow plugs] if fitted and that is held in for 10 seconds or so and then a starter button supplies power to the solenoid.
I have a terminal in the engine bay that has leads to the solenoid and to the glow plugs. I have a jumper cable to supply 12v positive to the glow plugs for 10 seconds then I place it on the starter solenoid terminal and start the engine. This is much easier than trying to jump across the terminals on the starter motor with a screw driver in a confined space.
It's much easier to make up these items ahead of time so that if you get down to your boat and there is a problem you don't lose a days sailing.
Thank you for going to the trouble of explaining that.
