Does anyone know a place in Sydney that performs this service. I hopped on my boat this morning to see this.
Came home, ground out the rivet and installed a new sheave with SS bolt and nylok nut. Couldn't drill out rivet as it rotated.
The unit is one piece and eyes welded so no possibility of replacing block and joining to slider with shackles (which would be too big to fit under spring anyway).
Not ideal as have the bolt head and nut protruding but it works. There is a ferrule (=bearing?) between the bolt/rivet and nylon sheave hole.
Would still be interested in any place that can install a rivet although heaven knows where the big fat SS rivets would come from.
I'm sure it is the first of a number that will fail so buying a couple of extra bolts and pre-cutting to length as well as sheaves.
Is it possible to securely grab the rivet in its mid length between the cheeks with a pair of vice grips, then put the vice grips in a vice, then drill out the rivets each side with exact size drill bit - remove the rivet. Then secure new pulley with exact size ss bolt and nyloc nut. Also suggest suitable washer under bolt head and nut.
For what its worth,
I use Ronstan low friction rings for sheeting in my No. 3 and when the sheaves go on the cars for my No.1 I'll be replacing them with the same. Low tech, low maintenance and they work well.
Mike
Would still be interested in any place that can install a rivet although heaven knows where the big fat SS rivets would come from.
I'm sure it is the first of a number that will fail so buying a couple of extra bolts and pre-cutting to length as well as sheaves.
I make the rivets in a lathe, find someone with a lathe to make them for you.
Came home, ground out the rivet and installed a new sheave with SS bolt and nylok nut. Couldn't drill out rivet as it rotated.
The unit is one piece and eyes welded so no possibility of replacing block and joining to slider with shackles (which would be too big to fit under spring anyway).
Not ideal as have the bolt head and nut protruding but it works. There is a ferrule (=bearing?) between the bolt/rivet and nylon sheave hole.
Would still be interested in any place that can install a rivet although heaven knows where the big fat SS rivets would come from.
I'm sure it is the first of a number that will fail so buying a couple of extra bolts and pre-cutting to length as well as sheaves.
Hi, there are low profile ss nylock nuts, I think they are about half the height of a standard one. Teamed with a button head bolt they would not be a problem.
What size rivet do think it needs. Im helping re rigg my cav atm and the some of the rivets Joe has are very big. maybe try a rigger , just a thought. cheers welsh
Came home, ground out the rivet and installed a new sheave with SS bolt and nylok nut. Couldn't drill out rivet as it rotated.
The unit is one piece and eyes welded so no possibility of replacing block and joining to slider with shackles (which would be too big to fit under spring anyway).
Not ideal as have the bolt head and nut protruding but it works. There is a ferrule (=bearing?) between the bolt/rivet and nylon sheave hole.
Would still be interested in any place that can install a rivet although heaven knows where the big fat SS rivets would come from.
I'm sure it is the first of a number that will fail so buying a couple of extra bolts and pre-cutting to length as well as sheaves.
Hi, there are low profile ss nylock nuts, I think they are about half the height of a standard one. Teamed with a button head bolt they would not be a problem.
Thanks
What size rivet do think it needs. Im helping re rigg my cav atm and the some of the rivets Joe has are very big. maybe try a rigger , just a thought. cheers welsh
Same as the unthreaded portion of an M8 bolt so pretty big.
What size rivet do think it needs. Im helping re rigg my cav atm and the some of the rivets Joe has are very big. maybe try a rigger , just a thought. cheers welsh
Same as the unthreaded portion of an M8 bolt so pretty big.
They are technically not really a rivet but rather an axle or spindle with an end that is designed to be expanded to lock the spindle in place. The process of expanding the end is often referred to as riveting.
The spindles are made like this because it's a cheap way to insure the sheave has a designed amount of clearance once secured in place .