Need help with my engine YSE8

My Engine has been rebuilt. It's states like a rocket works nicely for 5 min and then is getting fumes from chankshaft and loose the power and dies.
All parts are new, 2.6k for the parts including mixing elbow a Water trap and exhaust hose. days and days to put ti in and connect it properly..
water is running trough nicely, engine was running ok at the shop ( 2 min only).

I just can not believe that is happening to me! Will I ever do some Sailling that is the question?

very very disappointing, this is going against humanity now!

Suggestions are welcome!

Thanks

The smoke is coming from the crankshaft breather just next to the starter behind the alternator. Why would engine work for 6 min and then start to produce those smokes! How smokes can pass the piston and get to crankshaft? It's all new, piston, rings, cylinder sleeve, pin etc.

if there is the air leakage the engine will not start. I did prime and breath the engine. I honestly regret not to put a new betta engine in and be headache free.. I love my beast but is just giving up on me no matter what I do..

Hiya Serb,
What color is the smoke?
Good explanation below......

SMOKE COLOR

Basically there are 3 types of smoke emitted from a diesel engine: black, blue and white.

Black smoke:

Black smoke is the most common emitted from diesel engines and indicates incomplete combustion of the fuel. Black smoke causes can vary widely and include ..
? Incorrect fuel injection timing
? Dirty or worn fuel injectors
? Over fuelling
? Faulty turbocharger, or turbo lag
? Faulty or dirty exhaust gas recycling (EGR) system
? Incorrect valve clearance
? Incorrect fuel to air ratio
? Dirty or restricted air cleaner systems
? Over loading the engine
? Poor fuel quality
? Cool operating temperatures
? High altitude operation
? Excessive carbon build-up in combustion and exhaust spaces

Black smoke can occur across the entire operating range, but is usually worst under full power, or during the lag before the turbocharger boosts air supply to match the fuel usage such as in the early stages of acceleration and during gear changes. Moderate turbo lag smoke is acceptable; otherwise black smoke should be hardly visible in a correctly running engine.

Blue smoke:

Blue smoke is caused by engine lubricating oil burning. The oil can enter the combustion chamber from several sources including:

? Worn valve guides, or seals
? Cylinder &/or piston ring wear
? Cylinder glaze
? Piston ring sticking
? Incorrect grade of oil .. too thin and getting past rings, or valves guides
? Fuel dilution of the oil, making it too thin.

Blue smoke is often evident at cold start, which can reflect reduced oil control due to carbon fouling deposits around the piston rings and/or cylinder glaze. Blue smoke should not be evident at any stage.
An engine may burn oil without the evidence of blue smoke, because good compression burns oil quite cleanly, however, it is not acceptable for any new engine, or engine in good internal condition to burn large amounts of lubricating oil.

White smoke:

White smoke is caused by raw, un-burnt fuel passing into the exhaust stream. Common causes include:
? Incorrect fuel injection timing
? Defective fuel injectors
? Low cylinder compression

Low cylinder compression may be caused by leaking valves, sticking piston rings, ring wear, cylinder wear, or cylinder glaze. When white smoke occurs at cold start and then disappears as the engine warms up, the most common causes are fouling deposits around piston rings and/or cylinder glazing.
Continuous evidence of white smoke indicates a mechanical defect, or incorrect fuel timing.

Serb will it re start when cold ? Did you use the recommended oil with no additives?

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Ramona said..
The fumes will be just blowby from the rings not yet worn in. Use a running in oil and run the engine under load for awhile.

If you have a CAV fuel filter/water separator take this opportunity to toss it in the bin and fit a Chinese built Ryco equivalent that wont allow the air into the system. If the engine starts and runs for 5 minutes and then stops it will be air getting in. If you have a racor filter check the top O ring. There wont be much wrong, just relax.

Thanks. I will ask a mechanic to install a new fuel filter (the one that half of is made of glass) and breath the system professionally. I realised that top screw on the diesel filter is a bit rusty and that indicates that is a couple years old for sure. The boat was serious neglected, the propeller was turned into terracotta, oil filter was full of muddy like oil deposits etc. This diesel filter must be faulty. Will change that and hopefully I will report a good outcome. While engine was working for 5 min I have engaged the gear, propeller turned and finally cleaned it self. Now it looks yellow and clean. Because the boat didn't move for 4 months prop was black. I also realised that it was a bit of leakage on the injector side. There is a hose connected to the injector and is marked as a breather. I traced that hose and it's coming on the top of the tank but is not connected to the fuel. That hose was loose and I tightened it up. Going on the boat now to make pictures of the diesel filter and than quickly jump in the Repco to get it so mechanic can change it properly. Thanks tigers. Keep in touch

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UncleBob said..
Mate, you have paid a business to repair the motor, you are now having problems keeping it running and with it fuming, surely the only course is to approach the mechanic that did the job and seek their guidance. Also, use the oil that they advised, if it was me that did the work and problems occured the first question would be, did you follow the instructions.

Instructions, I just started the engine. Oil is the same, even is oil was changed, Valvoline or any other brand will not make engine to stop. Don't forget this engines are copy of a second world war engines and any Moho grade will do the job. Ticker the oil less clearances and less noise. This engine is not a Ferrari. This is the simplest Diesel engine ever made. To save few bobs and to gain some time (ready want to Sailling) I managed to fit the engine by myself using the car jack and a wooden plank. Connected all wires etc.
You are all correct it feels like some air is trapped in the diesel. It feels that engine us chocking periodically while working. Will change the filter and will see what comes next. This is an excellent learning experience for me. The reason why I didn't install a new Betta 14hp was that I will learn a lot with my old WW2 beast. That is the part of Sailling experience too. I may be wrong but there Is a very little differences in mono 30 oils on the market. That little difference will play if engine is working day and night after 1 year but after 10 hours of working and eleven changed every 6 months, that doesn't make sense to me. Recomended oil? Mechanic who rebuilt sad mono 30 , he got the deal with Valvoline, Yanmar dealers in USA with Shell etc. which one is recommended Shell if Valvoline? There is no difference there. Not in this case. It would be for AMG S class car but not for WW2 Diesel engine for sure!

Just mine tiger opinion ??????

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Serb1980 said..

Ramona said..
The fumes will be just blowby from the rings not yet worn in. Use a running in oil and run the engine under load for awhile.

If you have a CAV fuel filter/water separator take this opportunity to toss it in the bin and fit a Chinese built Ryco equivalent that wont allow the air into the system. If the engine starts and runs for 5 minutes and then stops it will be air getting in. If you have a racor filter check the top O ring. There wont be much wrong, just relax.

Done as instructed.

Engine starts like a rocket, runs like a rocket and after 40 min of running temperature didn't move from 34 degrees.. engaged the gear on mooring and is flying.

Tomorrow I will try to move from the mooring slowly. Nothing than a pure joy.

Thanks for help.

Pleased to hear that all is good so far, it will only get even better after everything is bedded in.