this is just a roughed out version will fit three LED waring lights in there as well
Suggestions please
What I have in mind is make a Marine ply panel to fit into the same area the Isolator switch is and hinge it on the left hand side and fit my Isolator panel engine panel and DC switch and fuse panel on the same ply door so for easy access a hinge on the left and a couple of wooden threaded knobs holding the panel in position.
I just felt it might be more user friendly than just screwing it in place
I like your work. Does not look like you need much advice.
If you dredge back though the forum you will find a thread called "Through the Power Maze" which has scanned pages from an article published in Cruising Helmsman which was written by an electrical engineer. It is definitely worth finding it and saving the images to your computer.
A hinged switchboard panel is the way to go if you do not have easy access to the rear of it.
Ramona says set your wiring up so that the wires are pointing down where they are connected to the switch panel. Good advice I say.
Here is the link to the thread. It is back on about page 33.
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Through-the-Power-Maze-Yacht-Electrics/
haydn, why are you not hiding your wires behind that timber facia? its cleaner and that's where mine are stored.
Hi Bubble those wires are the original before I bought the boat The will be removed I promise you
The above panel has been removed
The switch panel is removed
and what ever this was is gone also .
I am starting with relocating my start battery to the starboard side when walking into the companion way and making a extra Battery box exactly the same as what on the port side this will give me 4 batteries three house and one engine. two either side under the stern bunks . I am making all the battery leads to connect to the New Battery Isolator andalso made a my own engine panel which will have electric oil and temp gauges as well as new 12 volt LED warning lights alternator temp and oil as well as a audible alarm for Temp
This is a rough out panel Ill make a end version when I'm happy ( plenty of spare PC case aluminum around here) plus I scrounge the IT scrape bin at work
And I am going to fit a Bosch K1 95 amp alternator and change the pulleys to double A on the flywheel and alternator once I have work out the pulley sizes for RPM. Once this is all done I will remove all the remaining old wiring from the boat and replace and numerically tag every wire on the boat
and hide all the wiring
and the above which to get to the motor has to be removed while removing the engine cover its really a two person job one to hold the electrical panel while the other person removed the engine cover plus I do not like having so many electrical components inside the engine bay. Once this is all done Ill remove the old house wiring fit new LED lighting and I have a few pumps to wiring it as well ,bought a Johnson wash down, a sump pump and also a fresh water pump.
As I could not get a crane to remove the mast when I had her on the hard thought Id do as much as I can inside this winter. as well as I love to cook and intend to live aboard when I retire I bought new second hand Taylor 030 which I am hoping to fit this winter if I get enough good swing mooring weather
No the problem
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The difficult we do right away the impossible takes a little longer.
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HG02
It always amazes me the number of wires that aggregate on yachts
A few years ago , after adding heaps of my own electrical gizmos and charging systems i needed to do a refit / rewire
One of my greatest problems was to get instrumentation wiring from one side of companion way to the other also to the center of the inside of the cabin roof without bundles of wires exposed along the way
My solution was the electrical pvc trunking and it works a treat....i am still happy i used it
if you have not seen it check it out comes in lots of sizes and very neat .........www.bunnings.com.au/deta-25-x-25mm-trunking_p4330854
only other thing , but i had not made it at the time would have been to hard wire in my watch commander alarm
It was on my list actually the Power an Marine guys at work suggested it, also suggested the same thing with slots in it , So instead of using a zip ties around your termination (eg DC panel)
you use the trunking with slots so if you need to add a wire or two its a lot easier that cutting your zip ties off your loom.adding the extra wire .and keeps it tidy
like the above
instead of this which is good except when you want to add a wire\
When you think about it the Delta you put up would do fine just cut your own slots where needed Thanks Mad Mission
Better having a loop away from the terminals to drain water clear. Notice in the bottom picture the bus bar is mounted horizontal. Mounted vertical is much better with the wire arranged to shed water, not drain it into the fitting. Boats will have condensation at times and spending a little extra for a couple of inches of wire will save drama down the track.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..
Better having a loop away from the terminals to drain water clear. Notice in the bottom picture the bus bar is mounted horizontal. Mounted vertical is much better with the wire arranged to shed water, not drain it into the fitting. Boats will have condensation at times and spending a little extra for a couple of inches of wire will save drama down the track.
So in a way your saying t If I used the trucking place it below and bring the wire up to switch panels and fuses Ramona?
Hg02,
Re the photos you posted today.
What are the vertical terminal strips in the top photo for? It looks like wires go in from somewhere and out to somewhere. What do the strips add to the system?
If you are rebuilding your system then I suggest that you build in lots of spare capacity. I did a half hearted rebuild when I bought the boat and after 4 years am into the 3rd addition of extra capacity. Think of all electrical items you might want then double, that is if you like the extra toys on the boat!
Select to expand quoteHG02 said..Ramona said..
Better having a loop away from the terminals to drain water clear. Notice in the bottom picture the bus bar is mounted horizontal. Mounted vertical is much better with the wire arranged to shed water, not drain it into the fitting. Boats will have condensation at times and spending a little extra for a couple of inches of wire will save drama down the track.
So in a way your saying t If I used the trucking place it below and bring the wire up to switch panels and fuses Ramona?
No, the trunking has drain holes all the way along. You just need a slight loop in the wire so you have a low spot for moisture to run down and drop off, clear of any terminals that will trap water. If you sprayed water at that switchboard in the photo imagine how much water those terminals will hold. You have to plan on the odd occasion when large amounts of water appear in your cabin plus the usual condensation.
Select to expand quoteRamona said..HG02 said..Ramona said..
Better having a loop away from the terminals to drain water clear. Notice in the bottom picture the bus bar is mounted horizontal. Mounted vertical is much better with the wire arranged to shed water, not drain it into the fitting. Boats will have condensation at times and spending a little extra for a couple of inches of wire will save drama down the track.
So in a way your saying t If I used the trucking place it below and bring the wire up to switch panels and fuses Ramona?
No, the trunking has drain holes all the way along. You just need a slight loop in the wire so you have a low spot for moisture to run down and drop off, clear of any terminals that will trap water. If you sprayed water at that switchboard in the photo imagine how much water those terminals will hold. You have to plan on the odd occasion when large amounts of water appear in your cabin plus the usual condensation.
I see what you mean now thanks
Select to expand quoteLMY said..
Hg02,
Re the photos you posted today.
What are the vertical terminal strips in the top photo for? It looks like wires go in from somewhere and out to somewhere. What do the strips add to the system?
I'd also like to know. Given the excellent standard of electrical wiring (very nicely organised and a pleasure to trouble shoot), I'm sure there will be a good a reason - but what is it?
Select to expand quoteKarsten said..LMY said..
Hg02,
Re the photos you posted today.
What are the vertical terminal strips in the top photo for? It looks like wires go in from somewhere and out to somewhere. What do the strips add to the system?
I'd also like to know. Given the excellent standard of electrical wiring (very nicely organised and a pleasure to trouble shoot), I'm sure there will be a good a reason - but what is it?
Those images are off google just used them to show the slotted trunking which the guys at work(Cat Marine and Power) suggested I use as when adding extra wires into the loom instead of cutting zip ties you can open the trucking and fit the wire inside and close it
Over the next few weeks I am concentrating one adding another battery box on the starboard side and moving the Engine battery over to it and also adding a house battery in the same box all the same size giving me three house batteries and one engine and then wiring and cables to and from the battery isolator adding a bilge pump with a bilge switch panel manual and auto with fuse and fitting some sort of solar . Once thats completed Ill start sorting the DC panel removing every wire on the boat( which Ive started doing around the stern area) and hiding every wire that is installed The previous owner was a scientist and and not interested in visual aspects of exposed wiring ascetics and when it was wire years ago I don't think they had 12 volt LEDs mainly 3 and 5 volts so theres a lot of resistors every where that's not needed any more and may in the future create problems if they get wet so . Plus the previous owner had wired in a remote start panel at the stern of the cock pit for now I have it disconnected to many wires feeding back the the engine panel . I bought some 12 volt warning LED's lights for my engine panel they arrived yesterday so Ill trail fit them in my engine panel tomorrow and start making a loom at home for the engine still have to buy a oil and temp gauge will do that in the next few days . Id like to find a VDO oil gauge with 80 psi maximum if I can 60 psi would be ideal (with KPA as well) make me feel better if my motor oil pressure reads around 40 at least it will be half way on the gauge 
Plus Im half way through updating my Stove Cabinet. As long as I can get my batteries charging with a solar panel and have the engine loon finished and Isolator all fitted up and working The Ill start on the DC switch panel and run wires to items Ill fit and items I dont have yet that will need a loom to
Ciscos B.O.A.T bring. on . another . thousand
Ramona I will definitely make sure the wires can drip away from every thing thats one thing I had over looked being a land lover wirer upper till you advised me before
