I have an autostream on my yacht and it
is really good. only downfall is the cost of
sacrificial anode that bolts on the back cost
me about $70 bucks and last just over a year.

Sorry Cisco I disagree with you. the technology is
dynamic and has improved immensely in the past
10 years, from my experience a properlly set up
feathering prop is maintenance free (other than
anodes) is efficient in forward and reverse (prop
walk is a bit more noticeable) the efficiency when
sailing is worth every penny. IMHO. mine is S/Steel
and seems not to gather much growth (used every
week though) I have calculated i gain half to 1 knot
(sailing)on a 43 foot boat after the conversion and
my engine revs are decreased by 300rpm and i save
abit of fuel while motoring. All my experiences....
like to know if others have any feedback from theirs .
Paul.

Haven't heard of Kiwi props.

My input is if your not a "serious" racer go a 3 bladed prop (as your thinking), 2 bladed ones are pretty useless for cruising/delivering and the 3 bladed one work "OK" in reverse.

Be a bit careful with the no anode required - you have a couple different metals sitting in reasonably warm salt water. I'm guessing some of this is from the "composite" blades/hub - looks like plastic but there is still some metal in there somewhere.

One rule I've always used when buying marine products is never use the cheapest option - get a bunk of prices and try to pick something around the middle.

We had a three bladed fixed prop on our 30 footer when we bought her. She has a 18hp volvo so we replaced the prop with a Volvo two bladed folding prop which were sold with the motors when they came out , late 80's. With the new prop the boat is a bit slower under motor but this is more that compensated when sailing. I do not find a problem with reverse at all.
I think the cost was around $1,200 plus slipping and labour. Well worth the investment.

Hi Seabird,

I¡¦ve been using seabreeze for many years, and thought it about time I joined the forum. Feathering props is an area I can give you some 1st hand experience.

A feathering prop WILL noticeably increase your speed. If you are into racing, go for it. Our old bronze folder would have been at least 20 years old (maybe 30?), and we replaced it 3 years ago with a stainless. I¡¦ve attached some photos of both FYI.

We sail a UFO34, race offshore & swan river 1-2 times/week. Our donk is original 35 year old 15hp Yanmar. Our berth is a difficult reverse park, usually with 15+kts adverse breeze. 2 blade folder does it fine (although much comes down to the skippers brilliance!). Yes you do loose some reverse performance with a folder, but a competent skipper should be able to manage.

Anodes? YES! They cost $10 each, put on at least 1, maybe 2 or 3, they don¡¦t add drag or rotational inertia. We slip our boat annually, and find the anode OK. It could go 2 years. If you want to go 2-3 years between slips, put on more anodes. They cost nothing.

Our prop is a slipstream stainless steel we fitted 3 year ago (our old bronze folder had cracks after 20 or 30 years of life). It has been great. Cost around $2K to 2.5 fitted. Absolutely no maintenance or technology or mechanical issues. Note we race or cruise 2-3 times a week, and slip our boat annually. I also swim the hull 1-2 times each month. Heavy marine growth on the swan river!

If you want the ducks nuts, go a 3 blade folder. Mate of mine with a Bavaria 36¡¦ has this ¡V reverses great under pressure, and is ¡§quick¡¨. But you will pay for it!

So what am I trying to say¡K..????

Cheap, simple reliable cruiser ¡V Go fixed prop.

If speed matters ¡VYou race ¡V Go the 2 blade folder, you will go faster (small reversing & $$$ penalty)

If you want the best of both worlds, go a 3 blade folder¡K¡K ( I sometimes wished we had done this!)

Al


l the best! ļ

Poods