Changing the bilge pump today and noticed the cast iron casing at the front of the DV20 (behind the water pump housing) has a lot of rust. More than just surface. Looks like the flywheel has to come off to get access to the bolts holding the casing on. Access to the front of the flywheel is OK but the 6 big Allen key head bolts suggest this is a serious operation and needs a big puller.
Has anyone done this job in place?
Cheers,
Kinora
The Bukh service manual is available online from Bukh. Should help with the job. I haven't had to do it yet. But will be doing some work on my engine over the weekend
bukh.dk/upload_dir/docs/FAQ/Bukh%20ME%20-%20Data/Bukh%20ME%20-%2010-20%20ME/Bukh%2020%20ME%20-%20Manuals/Works%20shop%20manual/Work%20Shop%20Manual%20-%20BUKH%20DV%2020%20ME.pdf
The Bukh service manual is available online from Bukh. Should help with the job. I haven't had to do it yet. But will be doing some work on my engine over the weekend
bukh.dk/upload_dir/docs/FAQ/Bukh%20ME%20-%20Data/Bukh%20ME%20-%2010-20%20ME/Bukh%2020%20ME%20-%20Manuals/Works%20shop%20manual/Work%20Shop%20Manual%20-%20BUKH%20DV%2020%20ME.pdf
Many thanks, fretbrner! The manual doesn't mention using a puller to get the flywheel off but does mention it weighs 30 kg!
What could possibly go wrong ... ?
K.
I have experience with a Bukh DV10. It did not end well. The manuals do mention a puller, but they might be impossible to find. I manufactured a puller using an aluminium square section and some long bolts, so I could exert pressure by applying a spanner to the bolts. The fly wheel was really difficult to get off, even after undoing the big nut on the front. Not sure if it had some rust or if someone had used loctite on it. The flywheel also has some copper wire as an armature behind it, which was redundant in my motor because it was not connected. In any case the armature got a beating as I struggled with the flywheel by trying to lever it off. The flywheel is held on a taper with a key in a slot, so take care not do damage the key or slot. When I got the flywheel off the last time, I found the flywheel had a crack and the key and slot on the taper were damaged. The motor was damaged beyond repair.
I have experience with a Bukh DV10. It did not end well. The manuals do mention a puller, but they might be impossible to find. I manufactured a puller using an aluminium square section and some long bolts, so I could exert pressure by applying a spanner to the bolts. The fly wheel was really difficult to get off, even after undoing the big nut on the front. Not sure if it had some rust or if someone had used loctite on it. The flywheel also has some copper wire as an armature behind it, which was redundant in my motor because it was not connected. In any case the armature got a beating as I struggled with the flywheel by trying to lever it off. The flywheel is held on a taper with a key in a slot, so take care not do damage the key or slot. When I got the flywheel off the last time, I found the flywheel had a crack and the key and slot on the taper were damaged. The motor was damaged beyond repair.
Many thanks, Achernar. Your cautionary tale is pretty much what I was anticipating.
K.