The bar should be ok- its been used by other fellas before.

I reckon that if you tack one nut (on the side closest to the existing weld) so it cant move, and then fit the wheel on the shaft, put the other nut on then drill it all the way through the threaded bar to suit a clip it will be fine.

Or you could use a nylock nut instead of drilling the nut and threaded bar- as long as you have enough length on the threaded rod.

Make sure the outer race of the bearing doesnt rub on the nuts- if it does you may need to fit a smaller outside diameter washer that only bears on the inner race.

stephen

p.s. looking good so far -
where abouts in W.A. are you?

ahhhhh beauty. i should trust him as he's made them before (25 years ago) cheers stephen.
nylocks are definately the order of the day coupled with pins for double measure.
there are washers on the back and will be on the front thanks again.
i'm in mandurah the old boys in singelton

hahaa paul he IS a boily. i'm only 70kg and he aint to much more so hopefully the extra weight will keep us on three wheels. he's keen to make another so hopefully we'll get out with two if all goes well

Hey zeph, Looks great.

Definately don't do the nuts up tight. My two cents, i would weld the inside nut and use a lock nut on the outside. Might have to cut them down though as there does not appear to be a lot of thread.

I'm not convinced a Nyloc nut won't undo if the bearing is too loose on the shaft and spins. Typically threadded rod is smaller than the nominal size.

Also has anyone had problems with the threadded rod breaking at the weld. In my experience, (with other non land yacht related projects) is the heat from the weld can weaken hight tensile steels?

"Brick paintwork might make it heavier......But I'd do it anyway!)

Hi Lz,
I would tend to agree with the Nut Splitting idea and keeping the original surface out to the bearing. I am using Large washers that cover the bearing side completely with little interference at all and a gentle tap can cure that if it is a problem. I find that the Washer tends help keep sand out of the bearing as it has to travel down into the space between seal and washer. The metal fatigue thing--- well on that "I'd suck it and see" That is one of those things may or may not happen and given that there isn't a lot of weight involved I would think "Not" is the answer,----------That is unless you hit a bus and then you would be more concerned with the sudden stop, more so than the front axle busting. Nylok are good but do tend to fail under continuous removal and re-fitting. I would tend to cut about .25" into one side of the outer nut with the angle gringer 3 ways and "Castellate " it Then fir the nut and wheel in place doing it up until firm contact is made. At this point you back the nut off slightly so the wheel spins freely and center pop the axle through one of the Castellated cuts and drill it to suit a 1/8" Split Pin. But no matter the method used machinery of any description requires Maintenance and inspection. Wheels locking up or falling off at speed do tend to have a nasty effect.
Ron

Over the years i have tried several ways of wheel retention...

1. Nylock nuts work well but replace each year as they do wear out. Need a large spanner /wrench to adjust and heavy axle.

2. Castle nuts work well but the split pins are sharp and can rip your legs while rigging the yacht and be dangerous in racing in a collision. People often use nails just to add a sharp point to rip skin. Need several tools to remove the wheel, heavy axle.

If you use either of the above 2 variations often maintenance gets neglected as the wheels are at times a pain to remove.

3. R or D pins work well but have sharp points to cause injury. Very simple to remove.

4. Lynch pins (my favorite) simple easy to remove the wheel with NO tools no sharp pints to rip skin and they cost less than $2.
Carry a spare wheel in the car and change it faster than a pit stop at Bathurst (or Daytona for the people in the USA).
I have at times put a knobbly on one side and a smooth tyre on the other to cope with a muddy seaweed beach on 1 tack and firm sand on the other.
I actually try to have about 1-2mm side ways slop on the wheel to stop seaweed or sand jambing the bearing. Simple, effective and light weight.

I reckon you got her right with that set up Gizmo.

I will be getting rid of my 1" threaded rod axles and converting to the same set up as you depicted. The large diameter washers both sides of the bearings are good grit guards.

However I will be using heavy wall ( about 2.5 to 3 mm) stainless tube axle that I found in our local stainless supply shop that is a really neat sliding fit inside those deep groove bearings. It is just a tiny lick too big in diameter for the precision sealed bearings and I don't think emery tape would quite take enough off to make them fit.

Considering that sealed precision bearings still get grit in them fairly quickly, cost about $20 each as opposed to deep groove bearings at about $4 each, I do not think it is worth the expense of machining a couple of thou' off the axle tube.

I am sure the conversion will take a kilo off the weight of the yacht.

Gawdalmighty Gizmo! You would really have had something to cry about back in the days of the old Egyptian or Roman Chariots, what with their Scythes and all. What do you think that great hunk of pipe hanging outside the Wheel would do to someones legs?? Hum?
Anyway I don't think I'd like to be hit by any part of a Land Yacht. The Axles right above the Shins at 60kmh would certainly do some damage.[}:)]

Ron

In sailing set up it would have a plastic cover over the end of the tube, this then complies with the FISLY rule "SF8. Any sharp edges on the yacht must be made safe." unlike many of the other variations.

Gee that sounds like a very nice price!!!!

May I ask what is the unit price of the complete wheel and tyre KNO PW A10 (i think it is), 2 x 6004 high speed bearings and 2 of the SP 6004 adapters to suit?

Great to have a WA outlet and thanks for dropping by and spreading the word.

Gizmo, I knew there would be a reason for that much extra tube. Nice solution.

Gizmo said...

In sailing set up it would have a plastic cover over the end of the tube, this then complies with the FISLY rule "SF8. Any sharp edges on the yacht must be made safe." unlike many of the other variations.

Like so. I am aware that rule "SF8" is a class5 spec but why should be any different for any other class?

Hi Chook2 $36.00 + gst is for the complete wheel. model 400x8kno-pwb10, now you can have what ever bearing or plastic sleeve at that price.

Nikrum said...

Hey Steady up there Gizmo, do you know what and where those wheels are mounted?? For the record these wheels are safer than any of your Plastics, The Nut and axle end is recessed back inside the line of the outer rim and tire plus they are laid back as well.. Look at Occum's Razor you would be run over well and truly before the Nut or Axle even looked like touching you. Another thing is with those Plastics I do not need locking devices because of the method of setup. They are locked up tight with no stress involved on bearings or Hub Center.. All tension is delivered along the axle to the inner stop. Now those axle stubs of yours hang out a good 30mm or better that too is dangerous. I could have around 14mm outside the hub and a plastic plug inserted into it doing the same job

Ron

Nikrum so you think your setup complete with rusty nail is safe? Would you or the world wide sailing community accept a yacht from manufacturer A,B, or C with the wheels held on like the way you have done it? I think not.
You are probably going to say ... "well its a home built yacht and I sail by myself" but this is an International Forum. Other people sail / race with other yachts and by you promoting the idea as a viable method of attaching wheels is just plain foolish.

If you want to hold your wheels on with Chewing Gum, Dental floss, Rusty Nails or whatever that's YOUR choice but do not post it on a forum and promote it as the way to go!!!!

Oh, getting into the hard stuff now re. yacht safety. Where to draw the line, anthing goes vs. engineers certificate??? As Niaychi pointed out, we are homebuilding these things.

For what its worth; I would say the difference in danger posed by castle nuts vs. lynch pins isn't enough to warrant exclusion. Of course PVC/poly/plastic caps would solve the issue with both systems

Gizmo said...

lachlan3556 said...

Oh, getting into the hard stuff now re. yacht safety. Where to draw the line, anthing goes vs. engineers certificate??? As Niaychi pointed out, we are homebuilding these things.

For what its worth; I would say the difference in danger posed by castle nuts vs. lynch pins isn't enough to warrant exclusion. Of course PVC/poly/plastic caps would solve the issue with both systems

Your right simple covers would solve the problems from castle nuts and split pins etc.

Are there any International Construction Standards for land yachts like they have for cars?

you mentioned in a previous post of a protest before landyacht getting of the trailer for safety reasons ,regarding the welding there are some who can do very good welding and there is some really rough ones so for safety reasons the whole deal should be looked not just how we stop the wheels falling off.

Gizmo said...

niaychi said...
you mentioned in a previous post of a protest before landyacht getting of the trailer for safety reasons ,regarding the welding there are some who can do very good welding and there is some really rough ones so for safety reasons the whole deal should be looked not just how we stop the wheels falling off.

You are absolutely 100% correct.... maybe worthy of a thread of its own.

as there is more mini landyachts being built and used in public areas we dont need any accidents caused by poor workmanship ,the sport can do with out the bad publicity